T T 



•?i;rci- 



HOME 

L AUNDRY 

HINTS 



HOME 



Laundry Hints 



A book of Laundry Information for Housewives, 

Laundresses, Students in Domestic Science, 

and all others interested in the best 

Laundry Work 



Arranged, Compiled and Published 

IN THE interests OF 

New Edition, Revised and Enlarged 



Copyright 1912 by 

ALLYN K. FORD 

Minneapolis 



• * * 



'He who labors, prays. What worship, for example, is there not 

in mere washing." ^ 

— CARLYLE. 



■^•^y::^::^ 






CONTENTS 



IE 



i^ia. 



Chapter I. Page 
Soap and Water 4 

Chapter II. 
Washing 8 

Chapter III. 
Bluing 19 

Chapter l\\ 
Starching 26 

Chapter V. 
Hints on Hanging Clothes 30 

Chapter VI. 
Ironing 34 

Chapter VII. 
Removing Stains 45 

Chapter VIII. 
To Set and Freshen Colors ....56 

Chapter IX. 
Washing Various Fabrics 58 

Chapter X. 
N^ew Ideas for, Cleaning Things. .68 

•Dhipter XI. 
Helpful Hmts" ; 75 

Chapter XII. 
Index 79 



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PREFACE 




HE need of a practical book on home laundry- 
work has been recognized for a long time. 
There are plenty of cook-books to be had, but 
none on laundry work, the only way to get such 

J information until now, being from household 



magazines, by clipping the ideas at random and then making 
a scrap book. This little book saves all that trouble, for in 
it you will find all the latest and most approved ideas for 
cleansing of every kind. 

This is primarily a practical handbook, for those recipes 
not adapted to home use have been eliminated, the idea 
being to make the book simple and really useful. On the 
other hand, methods which enable the work to be done 
better or easier, and which tend to make laundry work less 
of a burden, have been carefully investigated and are in- 
cluded in this little book. You will find it a treasure-house 
of laundr}^ information, and while it contains much which 
is familiar to the experienced housewife, still there is a great 
deal new matter, here published for the first time. A care- 
ful perusal of its pages will repay any woman who is in- 
terested in good laundry work. 

Special attention is called to chapter VII, Removing 
Stains, and to the complete Index on page 78, by use of 
which you can turn to any subject immediately. 

If there are any recipes bearing on laundry work or 
cleaning of any kind which you have found especially good, 
and which are not mentioned here; particularly if calling 
for the use of MRS. STEWARTS BLUING, send them to 
us. You will receive our acknowliidgement, and if available 
they will be published in a new 'ecli,tJon of this book. Your 
name will be withheld if requested. 

Schools, colleges, etc., who wish copies of this book for 
the use of their students, also public libraries, should write 
for special terms. 

ALLYN K. FORD, Minneapolis, Minn. 



CHAPTER I. 
SOAP AND WATER. 



Of two countries, with an equal amount of 
population, we may declare with positive cer- 
tainty that the wealthiest and most highly 
civilized is that which consumes the greatest 
weight of soap. 

Liiebig:. 

All your better deeds 

Shall be in water writ. 

Beaumont and Fletcher. 




jN laundry work, the first and most important 
thing- is water, and plent}^ of it. It is the great- 
est of all cleansers; for with plenty of water and 
plenty of time, one could, with rubbing, clejxuse 
almost anything, but this, of course, would be a 
rather hard way, and few would care to spend ihe neces- 
sary time or strength. 

For the housewife, water may be classed as of two kinds. 
hard and soft. Hard water, which contains mineral sub- 
stances in solution, may be distinguished by the length of 
time it takes soap to make a lather; for soft water produces 
a lather quickly, and, di3sc'lves soap rapidly. For laundry 
work it is important that Ttlie water be soft so the soap can 
do its work properly; arid in localities where nothing but 
hard water is gbtainable, it must be softened or "broke" as 
it is called. To do this, some chemical is usually added to 
the water, such as sal soda, lye, borax, or ammonia. One 
tablespoonful of sal soda or borax, to each gallon of water. 



SOAP AND WATER. 6 



is about the proportion; though waters vary in hardness, ' 
some requiring stronger and others a weaker solutionT_ The 
material chosen, should first be dissolved with hot water in 
a granite iron dish before putting it in the boiler. See that 
it is entirely dissolved, otherwise it may injure the clothes. 
After the water comes to a boil, skim and strain before using. 
If ammonia is used, have enough so as to counteract the 
minerals, but the water should not he hot, as this evaporates 
the ammonia and causes it to lose its strength. Be careful 
to use only just enough to soften the water, for an excess 
will eat into the clothes and cause damage; or will at least 
make the clothes yellow. 

If yours is "temporary" hard water, that is containing 
lime, it may be softened by boiling, and the old-fashioned 
way is to put a glass bottle in the water which is being boiled, 
then, after boiling, the lime and other impurities will be 
found adhering to the bottle. It is said that this makes the 
water boil much more quickly. 

Water for washing should be clean and free from any odor 
when either hot or cold, and it is best to avoid when possible 
water which contains iron, as this will cause rust spots on 
the clothes if the soap is not thoroughly washed out. 

USING LYE FOR HARD WATER. 

Many housewives are afraid to use lye to break the hard 
w^ater for the weekly washing, but if they follow instructions 
they will have no trouble. 

Have ready a large galvanized tub. also a ten gallon water 
pail. Two large buckets of hard water require about one 
teaspoonful of lye. Let it stand over night, and next morn- 
ing take clear water from the tub, but do not stir the bottom. 
Place the clear water on the stove, begin washing, and boil 
your clothes in this water. You will have beautifully white 
clothes and your hands will be uninjured. 



HOME LAUNDRY HINTS. 



To Clear Muddy or Dirty Water. — In localities where the 
water has a great deal of sand in it, clear before using by 
taking one tablespoonful of alum dissolved in hot water, for 
each gallon of water used. This precipitates the dirt to the 
bottom; and the top which is now clean, may be poured off 
and used. 

LAUNDRY SOAP. 

Next to water the most important thing is soap. 
This unites with the dirt in the clothes and loosens 
it; then the water washes it out. For good work a good 
laundr}' soap should be used, on the quality of which one 
can rely. Almost all laundry soap contains some rosin, a 
small amount is not injurious. Buy soap by the case, re- 
move bars from wrappers and let it dry and season, which 
makes it last a great deal longer, and besides effects a con- 
siderable saving over buying a few bars at a time. For 
washing woolens, silks, laces, etc.. a neutral soap with but 
little free alkali should be used. Soft soap is too strong for 
most laundry work, being very hard on the hands and clothes. 
It should be used onl}^ in washing very dirty or greas}-^ ar- 
ticles of clothing, for scrubbing floors, etc. 

For a small wash, one ordinary size cake of soap should 
be sufficient. 

One should economize in using soap, by saving the small 
pieces of soap to shave into the clothes boiler. Form the 
habit of removing the bar of soap from the water when 
enough has been used, otherwise the entire bar will soon 
disappear. 

You can buy soap chips and use them in a salt bag both in 
kitchen and laundry and they are much cheaper than soap 
by the bar and just as good. 

It is better to buy soap than to make it at home, as the 
saving is hardly equal to the troul^le of making it. Still, one 



SOAP AND WATER. 



can use up the fats and grease from the kitchen in this_way, 
and we therefore, give these recipes for making soapi^/ 

To Make Hard Soap. — The fats, greases, etc.. should first 
be clarified by boiling with several pieces of raw potatoes, 
then skimmed and strained through cheese cloth. Now, 
take 2^ pints of cold water in a granite iron dish, and add 
one pound best lye. This should be done with the greatest 
care, as the lye will tat the hands if it falls on them. It is 
best to wear gloves, or cover them with an old cloth or 
paper for protection. The mixture becomes hot, as the lye 
dissolves, and it should be allowed to stand and cool till the 
temperature is about 70 degrees. Now take 6^ pounds of 
the clarified fat, and warm till melted, but do not boil. Slow- 
ly pour the lye on the grease, stirring meanwhile, and when 
about the consistency of thin honey, pour into wet pans. 
Do not stir too long. When cold, cut the soap into cakes. 

To Make White Floating Soap. — Take four quarts fat, any 
kind will do; two 10 cent cans of lye, and ten quarts of water. 
Put water in an old boiler, then the fat, and last the lye. 
Boil slowly three hours. When the soap becomes flaky and 
the liquid looks clear and boils over the soap, it is ready to 
skim. Line a wooden box with a piece of wet muslin, skim 
out soap, and put in the box to drain about twelve hours, 
then cut in bars. This will make twelve large oars, of hard, 
white soap, that may be used for any kind of washing. If 
the soap sticks on the hand when squeezed and looks greasy, 
it needs a little more lye, if too flaky, more fat. The liquid 
can be used for scrubbing. 

To Make Soft Soap. — Take 7^/ pounds of potash, ten 
pounds of grease and forty gallons of water. Dissolve pot- 
ash in a pan of water, add about one-third of the grease, and 
heat. Now mix in the remainder of the grease and add the 
rest of the water gradually for several days. It will be ready 
for use in about two weeks. 



CHAPTER 11. 
WASHING. 



They that wash on Monday, have all the week 
to dry ; 

They that wash on Tuesday, are not so much 
awry ; 

They that wash on Wednesday, are not so 
much to blame ; 

They that wash on Thursday, wash for shame; 

They that wash on Friday, wash in need; 

And they that wash on Saturday — oh, they're 
sluts indeed. 

Old English Proverb. 




JHE name "washing" is supposed to have been 
given to the process of cleansing clothes in v^ater 
because of the peculiar sound produced — some- 
thing like the sound of the w^ord itself. 

It is much more sensible, and convenient, to have the 
weekly washing done on Tuesday than on Monday. It is 
easy to gather up the laundry in a liesurely way on Mon- 
day and have it ready early the next morning for the laun- 
dress. Table linen, children's garments, and many other 
things are better mended before washing than after, and 
Monday is a good time for the task. Many garments worn 
Sunday would suffice for another day's wearing, if the laun- 
dress could wait for them until Tuesday. 

On the day before "wash day," the soiled articles should 
be sorted into piles, each containing one kind only. Look 



WASHING. ft 



over each piece carefully and if any are torn, mend them, or 
at least draw the edges together so the rent will not be made 
any worse. If any have stains, remove them now, though a 
better time would have been to remove them when the stain 
was m^de. Make piles of clothes as follows: First, table 
linen; second, bed and body linen; third, handkerchiefs; 
fourth, muslins, laces, etc.; fifth, kitchen cloths, etc. Flan- 
nels should be shaken and dusted and rolled up dry; prints 
and colored goods laid away dry. 

It is best to put each kind to soak by themselves in weak 
suds, but if this is not possible, all except table linen, hand- 
kerchiefs, kitchen cloths, etc., may be put to soak together; 
the latter must be kept by themselves till clean. Handker- 
chiefs, if badly soiled, may be put to soak in salty water 
first, or if there have been colds in the family, soaked in a 
weak solution of boracic acid and water. It is a good plan 
also to put collars, cuffs, shirts, etc., to soak by themselves, 
so that the old starch will not soak into the other articles 
which do not require starch. Fold and roll each piece by 
itself, pack in a tub; cover with warm soapy water and let 
them stand over night. The soaking over night in weak 
suds, greatly aids the cleaning process next day. 

Before washing, soften a bar of laundry soap in warm 
water, then rub it over the washboard, leaving each cor- 
rugation partly filled. 

In putting clothes to soak, rub the soiled places on the 
soapy board. Then roll the articles and pack them under 
the water. You can do this in less than half the time usually 
spent in handling, and without the annoyance of losing the 
soap in the tub. 

Three things should be kept in view in washing clothes. 
First, to get out all the dirt. Second, to keep the things a 
good color. Third, to use nothing that will destroy the 
materials, either chemically or mechanically — that is, by 
using strong soap or bleaching powders or by rough beating 
or scrubbing. 



10 HOME LAUNDRY HINTS. 

Next prepare melted soap by shaving or slicing pieces of 
soap, which have been shaved for this purpose when too 
small for other use. Place in an earthen jar with just enough 
water to cover it and set on stove till the soap melts. This 
must be made fresh every week for it loses its strength if 
kept longer. Use about one-quarter pound soap to each 
gallon of water. 

HOW TO WASH EASILY. 

On washing day rise early, as much better work can be 
done before the heat of the day comes on. 
Proceed with the day's work in this order: 

1. Wash flannels or silk underwear. These require no 
boiling and only warm water, and if rinsed and hung out at 
once, will be dry before the line is needed for other things. 

2. Wash stockings. See page 15. 

3. Using warm, clean suds, wash cleanest things first in 
this order: Table linen; bed linen; towels; body linen; 
handkerchiefs; soaked clothes. 

Make fresh suds whenever necessary. It is a mistake to 
think you can wash clothes clean in dirty water. 

4. Boil. Put clothes into cold water with soap solution. 

Let them come slowly to the boiling point, then let them 
boil for ten minutes. The longer they are coming to the 
boil the better. 

5. Rinse in two or three waters. The more waters, the 
whiter and cleaner the clothes. 

6. Blue with Mrs. Stewart's Bluing. Shake out each 
piece and put through the bluing water. See chapter IIL 

7. Starch whatever needs thin starch. See chapter IV. 

8. Hang out, putting pieces of a kind together, and have 
the threads of the cloth straight. See chapter V. 

9. Wash colored clothes. See page 14. 

10. Dry. If possible, dry the clothes out-of-doors. Take 
down, piece by piece. Never crush clothes into a basket. 

11. Dampen and roll up. 



WASHING. 11 



Points Worth Remembering When Washing.— Have tub 
and washboard at the proper height, so rubbing is done with 
the arms not the back. Use plenty of soap, it saves rubbing 
and take fresh suds when water becomes dirty. Have a 
small bl-ush handy, and with it rub dirty spots. It will save 
your hands and clothes and it removes the dirt easier. 

If in a hurry to use a tub that leaks, press common soap 
into the cracks from the outside. When dry pour melted 
paraffine around the cracks. 

To wash overalls and very badly stained clothing, use a 
small scrubbing brush on the washboard. A small board, 
on which to scrub is handy to slip in each leg of the overalls. 

In boiling clothes, use clean cold water, bringing to a boil 
slowly, and then boiling ten minutes. The clothes should 
be clean before putting them in the boiler, but any spots 
not entirely clean may be soaped as they are put in. Rinsing 
is most important as every bit of soap should be washed 
out before bluing, otherwise rusty spots may appear. The 
first rinsing water should be warm, or a soapy scum may 
settle on the clothes. Careless rinsing is often the cause of 
unsatisfactory washing. 

Small pieces, sucli as collars, jabots, handkerchiefs, nap- 
kins, etc., are much more conveniently handled in washing, 
if placed in a bag before being put in the boiler. 

A slice of lemon put into the boiler when boiling clothes 
will make them beautifully white. It will take all the stains 
out of pocket-handkerchiefs and other such things. Cut the 
lemon without the rind into slices and let it remain in the 
boiler until the clothes are ready to come out. 

One tablespoonful of borax in your rinsing water will cut 
the soap grease from your clothes and make them beautifully 
white. Remove scum as it rises or it will stick to the clothes 
again. 



12 HOME LAUNDRY HINTS. 



WRINGING. 

Thorough wringing has much to do with the good color 
of clothes. They should never have enough water left in 
them to drip after they are on the line. 

When using the wringer, fold the clothes so they will be 
about the same thickness when passing through, all buttons, 
etc., being folded inside the goods. In wringing skirts with 
heavy ruffles, wring the upper part first, then adjust the' 
wringer so that thick part will go through without straining 
the wringer or injuring the goods. Wringing sheets and 
table cloths crosswise instead of lengthwise will take the 
wrinkles out of the edges, and they iron much easier.- 

A denim apron with a high bib is a great thing when wash- 
ing. In it can be put two large pockets for clothespins, etc. 
An even better plan is to make the apron of oilcloth, and 
cuffs of the same material make fine sleeve protectors. 

Use a good pinch of granulated sugar on the hands when 
covered with soap suds to soften and whiten them. 

To Wash Flannels Without Shrinking. — First, wash the 
flannels; because they take so long, to dry, and as only warm 
water — not hot — is needed, this can be taken from the boiler 
while it is heating water for the rest of the washing; then 
by the time the flannels are finished, the water will be hot. 
In washing flannels, five things must be observed: 

1. Wash but one piece at a time. 

2. Do not soak, boil or rub. 

3. Do not wash in dirty water. 

4. Wash in waters of the same temperature. 

5. Use a good neutral soap, containing little free alkali. 

After putting some of the melted soap into the water, and 
working up a. good lather, take the lightest colored flannel 
piece, which has previously been well shaken, and plunge it 
into the lather. Do not rub as this makes the fibres harsh; 
but instead, punch and knead it till cleansed. If one soap 



WASHING. 13 



lather is not enough use a second. When clean wring tightly, 
shake again and rinse in two waters, of the same tempera- 
ture as before, after which blue with MRS. STEWART'S 
BLUING, squeeze as dry as possible, and, if the weather is 
fine hang out doors at once. If it is necessary to dry in the 
house, hang near the fire (but not too near,) so it will dry 
without shrinking. If steam arises while drying, there is 
too much heat. It is best to use a wringer so as not to 
twist the fibre. 

Colored flannels can be washed in the same way, and with 
as little delay as possible. The last rinsing water should 
have some vinegar added, in the proportion of one table- 
spoonful to each quart, or if there are two or more colors, 
use salt instead of vinegar. This helps to set and revive the 
colors. They should be hung wrong side out, and when 
nearly dry turned. Knitted and woven woolen garments 
should be pulled into shape while drying, and it is a good 
plan to have frames made for woolen stockings, over which 
they can be stretched while drying. 

All flannels will wash easier by adding a little ammonia, 
to the water (one tablespoonful to two gallons,) and this 
must be carefully rinsed out. Ammonia is quite necessary 
when hard water is used. By adding one tablespoonful of 
glycerine to the last water, the wool will be kept soft. Do 
not wash flannels on a rainy day if it can be avoided, or 
hang them where they will freeze. Choose a day when it 
is bright and breezy, if you possibly can. 

To Wash Blankets. — Proceed the same as for flannels and 
hang out to dry at once. By running threads around the 
soiled spots of the blanket you can find them again, when 
the blanket is wet. Two tablespoonsful of salt in the water 
in which they are washed, and a little less in the rinsing 
water, keeps the border colors from fading. Pin blanket on 
the line the long way of the blanket, so the colors will run 
down their own lines; putting only enough over the line to 
hold the blanket in place. When dry, fold carefully. 



14 H03IE LAUNDRY HINTS. 

To Wash Blankets in Cold Water. — Take melted soap 
and add cold water in a tub. To this soapy water 
add four tablespoonsful of powdered borax. Soak the 
blankets in this over night or for several hours. 
Wash in this water. Rinse twice in cold water, wring, and 
rinse finally in Mrs. Stewart's bluing water, but do not 
wring or squeeze them this last time; simply hang out to 
drain and dry in the sunshine. Hang the blankets by the 
side, and change to the other side when partly dry. Blan- 
kets washed this way will not shrink and will be light and 
flufify. 

A Good Soap for Washing Woolens. — Take one large bar 
Ivory Soap (or any other neutral soap) and shave it into 
three quarts of cold water. Heat till it boils, then cool, 
when two tablespoonsful borax and one-half cup wood 
alcohol may be added. This mixture is sufficient for eight 
blankets. 

Instead of ironing flannels, fold smoothly as if to iron, and 
wring in rinsing water through the wringer, then hang out 
to dry. When dry, brush with a small whisk broom, not 
too hard, and in one direction. This raises the nap and they 
appear like new, and look as smooth as if ironed. This 
saves time and with no danger of scorching. 

To Wash Heavy Bed-Clothes. — Make a warm suds with 
good soap and let the comfortables or blankets soak in it for 
a while. Knead and punch again in another suds, rinse 
thoroughly and hang on the line without wringing. If a 
hose is handy spray plenty of water over them when on the 
line. The cotton in comfortables will not mat when, washed 
in this way. 

To Wash Prints and Colored Goods. — In order that the 
colors on these may be kept bright, they should be "set" 
before the clothes are wet. This can be done by soaking in 
salt and water (one tablespoonful to the gallon), or in vine- 



WASHING. 15 



gar and water (one-fourth cup vinegar to one gallon water.) 
Further instructions regarding the setting of colors are 
given in chapter eight. Wash in lukewarm water and melted 
soap, avoiding rubbing, and washing more by squeezing and 
kneading. Rinse well, wring thoroughly and dry immedi- 
ately with no sun. If the articles are to be starched, have 
the starch ready and dip at once as the colors may run if 
allowed to remain wet. If very stiff starching is required 
however, the articles must be thoroughly dried so they will 
absorb enough starch. Quick washing, quick drying and no 
sun are the secrets of successful washing of prints. Colored 
clothes should not be boiled, and it should be remembered 
that but few colors can stand washing soda or strong soaps. 
If a black and white gingham should dry in streaks, soak 
several hours in cold water, then wash, rinse, wring dry and 
hang in the shade where it will dry quickly. 

To Wash Handkerchiefs. — Soak the handkerchiefs before 
washing, in cold water to which has been added a little 
borax or cream of tartar and plenty of soap. Boil thorough- 
ly and rinse in two waters. They will be white as snow and 
perfectly clean. 

To Wash Stockings. — Wash stockings first on the right 
side and then on the wrong side. Do not boil. Rinse in 
clear water, and hang them to dry by the toe. New stock- 
ings should be soaked in salt water to set the color. 

Union suits dried on a coat hanger and with the tape 
about the neck drawn up slightly will not draw out of shape 
about the neck as they do when hung on the line by the 
shoulders. 

To Wash White Clothes. — First of all remove any stains, 
and either mend or draw together any rents that are ob- 
served. Prepare moderately strong suds of water as hot 
as the hands can bear. Wash cleanest pieces first, a few 
at a time, first on the right side, then on the wrong side. 
Rub only enough to remove the dirt. Shake the article, 
soap the parts still dirty, boil and rinse. Blue with MRS. 
STEWART'S BLUING and hang in the bright sunshine 
and fresh air to dry. 



HOME LAUNDRY HINTS. 



To keep white goods a good color, do not wash them with 
linen things, as linen discharges a gummy substance that 
discolors white goods. 

Table Linen. — This generally, does not require much rub- 
bing as it is not very dirty, and besides hard rubbing in- 
jures the cloth. When clean, put in boiler in tepid water 
and let boil a few minutes, being careful not to let it stop 
boiling before the clothes are taken out. Place in a tub of 
clear, lukewarm water, wash and wring. Loosen the rollers 
of the wringer, for table linen creases easily and tight wring- 
ing with a clothes-wringer makes wrinkles that are hard to 
iron out. 

HOW ONE WOMAN PLANS WASHDAY. 

The white clothes are put to soak in the evening, and 
after supper placed on the stove to boil, being stirred several 
times. After 20 minutes boiling, they are removed and put 
in a tub, cold water is then poured over them, and left till 
morning. The tubs of rinse water are now filled for use 
next day. 

In the morning, after breakfast, the clothes that have been 
boiled are rubbed on board; while towels and similar ar- 
ticles are put on to boil. The first clothes are soon ready 
for the line and the entire washing is finished early in the 
morning before the heat of the day comes on. 

If you use a washing machine, you can get your washing 
well out of the way the evening before by getting your 
husband to run the machine for you, thus saving your 
strength for the next day. 

To Wash With Paraffine, Kerosene or Gasoline. — This 
method, while effective, requires a great deal of fuel, water 
and soap, but requires no rubbing whatever. Soak the clothes 
over night in lukewarm water, then make a strong suds of 
soap and add a tablespoonful of paraffine, kerosene or gaso- 
line to every three gallons of water used. Bring to a boil, 
and boil steadily for a half hour. If the boiling stops the 
dirt will settle on the clothes. Then remove, wring and 
wash in several waters; the first, at least, being hot water. 
If not yet clean, repeat the process with more kerosene, 
gasoline or paraffine and clean water. The rinsing must be 
done thoroughly or the clothes will smell of kerosene. Be 
^areful in tjsing the kerosene and gasoline, and do not pour 



WASHING. 17 



it from the can directly into boiler, but into a cup first. 
After rinsing- thoroughly the clothes should be blued with 
MRS. STEWART'S BLUING. 

Turpentine is injurious to the health and should not be 
used except in washing machines. Be careful not to breathe 
the furies of it and see that clothes are well rinsed after- 
wards. •». 

Washing Fluid. — This saves full half the labor, and a fam- 
ily who used it seven years found it did not injure the clothes 
in any way, probably because of thorough rinsing after us- 
ing it. 

Take 1 pound sal soda, I/2 pound stone lime, and 5 quarts 
water. Boil a short time, stirring occasionally, then let it 
settle and pour off the top into stone jug «which cork for 
use. Add one cup of the prepared fluid to boiler half full of 
water, stir and put in the clothes, boiling one-half hour, after 
which rub lightly through one suds only, rinse well and blue 
with MRS. STEWART'S BLUING. The fluid is of great 
value also in removing grease and grime from floors, win- 
dow sash, etc. 

When putting the boiler away, wipe it as dr}^ as possible 
and always place it upside-down. 

When the washing is done, the tubs should be put upside- 
down on the basement floor and a little water poured over 
the bottom, then they will never dry out and fall to pieces. 

To clean a copper boiler or tank, apply finely scraped 
bristol brick moistened with ammonia. 

To mend a boiler, mix glycerine and litharge to a thick 
cream, then paste on leak. After standing for a week hot 
or cold water will not affect it. This is also a good cement 
for wood or earthen ware. 

How to Wash V/ithout Fire. — In summer, clothes may be 
washed without fire by soaking over night in a suds of soft 
water, rubbing out in the morning, soaping the dirty places 
and laying out on a clean lawn in hot sunshine. By the 
time the last of the washing is laid out, the first can be 
taken up, washed out and rinsed. This, of course, requires 
a clean lawn, and cannot be done in the city. 

Note. — For cleaning special materials not mentioned above, 
and further instructions regarding washing, see chapter nine. 



18 HO]V£E liAUNDBY HINTS. 



Washing Machines. — Washing machines are of three class- 
es; the rotary, squeezing, and rubbing machines. Each has 
its advantages. AH of them cleanse the clothes thoroughly, 
do not wear nor tear the clothes unduly, and conserve the 
time and strength of the housekeeper. 

In the squeezing process the suds are forced through the 
clothes by air pressure, thus avoiding undue strain upon the 
fabric. 

Most rotary machines can be run by a motor. The only 
objection to the rotary machine is that the prongs, in re- 
versing their motion are liable to tear fine fabrics. The 
combination of a rotary motion with a squeezing motion has 
also been exceedingly successful and has the advantage of 
working easil}^ with a motor. 

The old-fashioned rubbing or rocking machine with which 
many are familiar, will scrub out soiled clothes better, per- 
haps, than anything else, but at great cost of strength and 
great damage to the clothes. 

The use of the washing machine makes possible the use 
of much warmer water than washing by hand. 

TO WASH WITH A MACHINE. 

Fill two boilers half full of soft water, cut up one bat- 
good laundry soap or better yet, use soap chips; put into a 
muslin bag and tie end. When the water is boiling put soap 
and water into the washing machine, then put in clothes 
equivalent to five sheets, turn washer ten minutes wring 
out, rinse through one cold water and blue with MRS. 
STEWART'S BLUING. You may repeat this process five 
times without changing water if you wash steadily, and keep 
the machine closed so the water will not get cool.. The 
boiling water will not set the dirt. 

The washer must be full of water, and blood spots, etc., 
must be washed out before starting. 

When using a washing machine always put fine articles 
into a flour sack to protect them. They wash just as well. 

Equal parts melted lard and kerosene oil makes a very 
good substitute oil for the washer, wringer, door hinges, etc. 



CHAPTER III. 
BLUING. 



Blue, darkly, deeply, beautifully blue; 
As someone, somewhere sings about the sky. 

Byron. 

The comfort of a household is the result 
of small things well arranged and provided. 

S. Smiles. 



f^'P^S:-5)fe^ 


^ 


^ 


T 


1 


m 


^ 


1 



HIS chapter is written to those who have trouble 
with any kind of bluing, and to suggest the 
remedy. 

Bluing is made of different materials, such as 
indigo, aniline, ultramarine or Chinese blue, etc. 
These are ordinarily insoluble in water, and are therefore, 
in their original state, most unsatisfactory to use. This is 
particularly true of the ultramarine blue, which is the base 
of the "ball" or "square" blue so often used.. It is also used 
in some kinds of liquid blue. All of these are insoluble in 
water and do their work by depositing on the clothes a fine 
blue powder. Any woman using these blues will find a blue 
coating on the bottom of the tub when the water is poured 
off, thus showing the reason why they cause so much trouble 
and so often spot and streak the clothes. When the ball or 
square blue is used, it is necessary to stir the blued w^ater 
continuously, so that this fine powder will not settle to the 
bottom of the tub or on the clothes, thus spotting or streak- 
ing them. 



20 HOME LAUNDRY HINTS. 

AN ANILINE BLUE does not settle, but it can be told 
by the fact that it colors the water purple instead of blue, 
and no matter how little is used, it will give the clothes a 
purplish tint, which is not desirable, nor liked by most 
laundresses. 

BLUING IN STICK FORM is certain to be unsatisfac- 
tory. In the first place it is not economical, notwithstand- 
ing the statement of the manufacturers to the contrary. That 
it will not go half as far as a bottle of MRS. STEWART'S 
BLUING, can easily be proven. The base is generally the 
ultramarine blue mentioned, and it never dissolves in the 
water, but deposits instead a fine blue powder on the clothes. 
Then, too, one's hands are sure to be soiled, or else .when it 
is hung up, a blue streak will drain down the wall and on 
the floor. Anyone who has ever used this style of bluing- 
will tell you that it takes a long time to get the water blue 
enough, and as one is always very busy on washday, this 
fact alone is enough to decide against it. 

THE DRY BLUE, in a pepperbox, is most undesirable 
because it will streak or spot the clothes if not used with 
the greatest care. 

As to the SQUARE, OR BALL BLUE, we cannot under- 
stand why any woman wants to go to the trouble of wrap- 
ping the blue in flannel, taking the chances of getting her 
hands soiled, as well as streaking and spotting the clothes, 
and making the muss which is necessary; particularly on 
wash-day when one has plenty to do. This blue is not sat- 
isfactory and the only reason it has been used by house- 
wives is because they have not known of any better. 

Liquid Bluing. — We now come to the consideration of 
liquid bluing. This is far superior to any other style, but 
even here there are two kinds: MRS. STEWART'S— and 
others. We will reserve our remarks on MRS. STEWART'S 
till the last and consider the other kinds first. 



BLUING. 21 



Nearly all liquid bluing except MRS. STEWART'S is put 
up in second hand ale, beer or catsup bottles. These are 
gathered by junk dealers from the ash piles, saloons and 
dumps of the larger cities, and then sold just as they are, 
without being washed. The man who makes this junk bottle 
bluing, concocts weak bluing, diluted just as much as pos- 
sible. We have seen such bottles half full of beer, ashes, 
etc., but this makes no difference to the manufacturer of 
this vile stuff, for he has to make it up cheaply. The bluing 
in these bottles does not amount to much more than the 
value of the label on the bottle. Take a spoonful or two 
of MRS. STEWART'S BLUING and put it in a catsup 
bottle, and then fill the bottle with water. You will find the 
mixture is as good, if not better than the ale-bottle stuff. 
This explains why it is often necessary to use half a tea- 
cupful of ordinary bluing, sometimes even a whole bottle, 
when a few drops of MRS. STEWART'S BLUING will do 
the work better. 

This junk bottle bluing is sometimes called "cheap," but 
it does not have even that to recommend it, for it really is 
far more expensive than MRS. STEWART'S, which will 
go as far as eight to ten bottles of this vile stuff. Why any 
woman who wishes to make clothes sweet and clean, can 
use this dirty bluing is more than we can understand. 

Why Mrs. Stewart's Bluing is Superior. — We now come to 
the consideration of MRS. STEWART'S BLUING, the ideal 
and perfect bluing. This differs from all others in that it 
does its work perfectly, with no trouble or muss whatever. 
It does not spot nor streak the clothes nor turn them yellow, 
but instead, whitens them, and this without injury in any way. 
You never need be afraid to use it on the finest material, for 
it cannot injure it. If too much is used, it can be washed out 
again and no harm is done. To use too much, is in fact, the 
only trouble a woman has when first using MRS. STEW- 



22 HOME L.AUNDRY HINTS. 



ART'S BLUING, for on account of its more concentrated 
form much less should be used. By pouring it in the water, 
a few drops at a time, till the proper shade is obtained, no 
mistakes can be made. 

MRS. STEWART'S BLUING is, therefore, much more 
economical to use than any other and it is owing to this fact 
that nearly ever}'^ Chinese laundry uses MRS. STEWART'S 
BLUING. They buy it not only because it is the best, but 
because it is the cheapest for them to use. This is one of 
our best advertisements. 

One of the most important good points about MRS. 
STEWART'S BLUING is the fact that it dissolves entirely 
even in the hardest water. It does not settle, either in the 
bottles or in the tub, and so will not spot nor streak the 
clothes. It is not necessary to shake the bottle, simplj^ 
pour out as much as needed. Owing to the shape of the 
bottle it cannot tip over. Then, too, MRS. STEWART'S 
contains two ounces more than other (so-called) high grade 
bluings, so all things considered, we can see no reason 
why any woman who is particular should care to use any 
other. Remember, other liquid bluings put up in second-hand 
ale or beer bottles are filthy in the extreme and you cannot 
have good work and really clean clothes unless clean bluing 
is used. 

WHAT MISS SHEPPARD SAYS. 

Miss Juniata L. Sheppard, one of the foremost authorities 
on laundry work in the country, whose words, therefore, 
carry great weight on this subject, says, in her book, Laun- 
dry Work." 

"Ultramarine blue is a fine powder, insoluble in water and 
unless the bluing water is frequently and thoroughly stirred 
and attention given to sides and bottom of the tub, this 



BLUING. 23 



powder will adhere, and mar the clothes. Aniline blue will 
not be satisfactory if a bleach has been used which leaves 
a trace of acid in the rinsing water. Accustom yourself to 
some bVand of bluing that you find good, and then use that, 
for you will soon be able to judge by the appearance of the 
water when the right amount has been used, and you will 
know how to guard against its imperfections. 

Precautions Necessary in the Use of Bluing.— "Do not use 

too much. The clothes should never have a blue cast. When 
liquid bluing is used, pour in a little, stir it by putting the 
hand down in the water. When j^ou think it is right, try it 
with a white cloth before dipping any wearing apparel into 
it. Wring each article from the rinsing water before putting 
through the bluing water, then dip and wring them one at 
a time." 

Be sure that the bluing is well mixed and the water an 
even color before you put in the articles to be blued. WVing 
out the clothes thoroughly after bluing, or the water will 
drip from them and streaks of blue may show on the 
garments. 

If bluing does not work well in soft water, try hard water 
and in it you may find the remedy. Sometimes a little hot 
water in the bluing will keep the clothes from becoming 
streaked. If you get too much bluing in the water put in a 
little household ammonia. 

An excellent plan is to mix the bluing first in a cupful of 
milk before pouring it in the water. Skimmed milk is as 
good as any for this purpose. This is sure to keep it from 
spotting or streaking the clothes. 

Boiling will remove spots or streaks of bluing. 

A rubber nipple on the bluing bottle will prevent an over- 
dose of bluing. 



24 H031E LAUNDRY HINTS. 



WHAT MARION HARLAND SAYS ABOUT BLUING. 

This is what Marion Harland, the authority on household 
affairs says about bluing: 

"An overblued article betrays gross ignorance or more 
culpable carelessness, always and everywhere. The shift- 
less creature who uses bluing to hide dirt is short sighted 
as well as indolent, for the dirty spots will set into indelible- 
ness. When blue streaks appear in linen which has been 
well washed, they are due either to improper mixing of the 
bluing water, or the things thus mottled were hung on the 
line dripping wet, when the trickling streams dry into 
stripes." 

For making embroidery patterns on white linen or cotton, 
use a pen and diluted MRS. STEWART'S BLUING. It will 
wash out later. 

After shampooing white hair, rinse in several waters, the 
last blued with MRS. STEWART'S BLUING. This is a 
secret of the exclusive hairdressers. 

MRS. STEWART'S BLUING makes a fine writing and 
marking ink for general use. 

To remove the "shine" from dark wool material, sponge 
it with diluted MRS. STEWART'S BLUING, and press it 
while still damp, under a thin cloth. 

Why Clothes Become Yellow. — Clothes become yellow for 
a number of reasons; because not washed or rinsed sufficient- 
ly; because dried in the house, or from lying long unused. 

Washing too many things in the same water and not rins- 
ing sufficiently are the two main causes of yellow clothes. 
All clothes must be rinsed quite free from soap suds before 
bluing is added to the water, or the soap may be decomposed, 
making yellow streaks. 



BliUING. 25 



Sometimes it may be an excess of alkali used in softening 
the water, cheap soap, or water itself which contains im- 
purities which stain the clothes. MRS. STEWART'S BLU- 
ING will overcome all these troubles, as thousands of the 
best laundresses testify. 

To Keep Materials White. — Take a good-sized pillow case 
and blue it thoroughly with MRS. STEWART'S BLUING. 
In this place the dress, and baste or pin the open end of the 
case so as to keep out all dust and air. When you open the 
blue bag your dress will be white without resorting to the 
tub or dry-cleaning process. 

To Whiten Linen. — Linen that has become yellow with 
age may be made beautifully white by boiling it in a lather 
made of one pound of white soap to one gallon of milk. 
After boiling rinse in two waters and add MRS. STEWART'S 
BLUING to the last water. Another method is to soak 
over night in water in which has been dissolved one tea- 
spoonful of cream of tartar to every quart of water. When 
ironed, the linens will be snow white. 

Other Uses for Bluing. — It is a fact not generally known 
that MRS. STEWART'S BLUING can be used with great 
success in washing white horses, dogs, cats, and other pets. 
Put a little in a pail of water and then, after washing as 
usual with soap, rinse with clear water and then sponge 
with the bluing water. 

Bluing is also used by paper manufacturers to make very 
white paper, and in many other ways; but its principal use 
is in the laundry for whitening clothes, and it is here that 
MRS. STEWART'S BLUING excels all others. 

Always use MRS. STEWART'S BLUING. 



CHAPTER IV. 
STARCHING. 



But now my task is smoothly done, 
I can fly or I can run. 



Milton. 



That which thou cans't do thyself, commit 
not to another. 




HE correct starching of clothes is really the key- 
to their good appearance when ironed. There 
is no economy in a cheap grade of starch. Dirty 
starch will spoil the most carefully laundered 
clothes, and half cooked starch sticks to the 
irons whatever you do. 

All articles required very stiff, such as shirts, collars, 
cuffs, etc., should be starched in cold water starch, or if a 
very high polish is desired use Mrs. Stewart's starch polish 
recipe. 

Muslins, laces, prints, etc., requiring but little stiffening, 
are done best in hot water starch. Closely woven goods 
require less starch, coarse goods require more. 

Table linen may or may not be starched. If starched it 
remains clean longer, but it is likely to be worn out sooner. 
It is best to use hot starch diluted, as linen is closely woven 
and absorbs a great deal. 

In washing underlinen, in which case but little starch can 
be used, add a teacupful of stiff boiled starch to each gallon 



STARCHING. 27 



of bluing water. This gives the garments a nice smoothness 
and gloss, but does not stiffen them perceptibly. MRS. 
STEWART'S BLUING must be used, otherwise trouble 
may ensue. 

Most* people starch their clothes before they are dried on 
the line, and this is alvvays the better plan; but in exceedingly 
cold weather when clothes are to be put outdoors to dry 
and there is danger of freezing, it is better to let the clothes 
rough dry outdoors, where the frost will bleach them; then 
bring them in and starch them, and let them dry the second 
time in the house. 

Recipe for Cold Water Starch. — Take two teaspoonsful 
starch, a little cold water, one cup warm, but not hot water 
and four drops turpentine. 

Mix starch with a -little of the cold water, using the fingers 
to remove lumps, etc., then add the turpentine. The tur- 
pentine makes the iron run smoothly. Finally add the warm 
water. In making a larger 'quantity, be careful not to use 
too much turpentine, as it may make the clothes smell 
strongly. If turpentine is objected to, make a lather with 
soap in the starch, but this is likely to scorch when ironing. 
A small quantity of MRS. STEWART'S BLUING added, 
will make the starch very white. 

Recipe for Boiled Starch for Stiff Starching. — Take four 
tablespoonsful starch (if possible, thr^e of corn starch and 
one of wheat starch) and mix with a little cold water till a 
creamy consistency. Now add a pint of boiling water, two 
teaspoonsful of kerosene, one teaspoonful lard and a little 
MRS. STEWART'S BLUING to give the starch a nice white 
color. Boil about ten minutes, stirring frequcntl}^ When 
ready to use, place the dish oi starch in aniitlier dish of hot 
water to kcej) the starch warm wliilo being used. 

One good laundress is very particular to have the starch 
used while it is freshly made. When necessary to get the 
white clothes out early she makes a new batch of starch and 



28 HOME liAUNDRY HINTS. 

uses it hot for the colored clothes. Dark blue and red come 
out as free from spots of starch as do the white waists. 

Mrs. Stewart's Famous Starch Polish Recipe. — Into two 
heaping tablespoonsful of starch dissolved in cold water, 
slice li^ inches of a paraffine candle; place in a granite dish 
on a hot stove; stir briskly, and pour in boiling water until it 
is like thin syrup. Boil gently, stirring occasionally, for a 
half hour. If a tablespoonful of kerosene is stirred in just 
before starch is removed from the fire, the starch will not 
stick to the iron. 

Now take two heaping tablespoonsful of starch for a sec- 
ond batch, and dissolve in half a cup of cold wa.ter. Re- 
move the first dish of hot starch from stove, stirring until 
the scalding heat has passed ofif; pour the cold into the hot 
starch, stirring until well mixed, then strain through cloth 
into a dish. Set dish in hot water to keep the starch warm 
while being used. Starch thoroughly, and rub down with 
the fingers to remove the loose starch, and prevent cloudy 
spots. Fold shirts, sprinkling body and sleeves and rolling 
tight. Fold collars and cuffs in heavy dry towel. In half an 
hour commence ironing. 

Iron the inside of collars first, through a piece of fine 
muslin, passing the hot iron over the cloth lightly two or 
three times. Remove the cloth, and iron the outside in the 
same way. Finish by ironing and shaping. 

Iron until perfectly dry with very hot irons. A little 
MRS. STEWART'S BLUING will make the starch and 
the starched articles whiter. 

Recipe for Rice Starch. — This can be used only for thin 
sheer materials like muslins, handkerchiefs, etc. 

Take one-fourth pound rice and cook in one quart water till 
cooked to a pulp, adding more water as necessary. Now 
pour in another quart of hot water and strain through cloth. 



STARCHING. 29 



In using rice starch take one piece at a time, dip in the 
starch, and if small pieces, clap between the hands, which 
scatters the starch into every part of the cloth. If large 
pieces, h^ng out for a few minutes and iron when nearly dry. 

Gum Water for StLTening. — Take one ounce best gum- 
arabic and one-half pint boiling water; pour water over gum 
and let stand, stirring frequently, strain through cloth and 
then bottle. This keeps a long time and can be used for 
stiffening as required. 

Borax Water. — One of the simplest methods of starching 
is to use half a teaspoonful of borax in a -cupful of cold 
water. Dip and wring articles, roll in a dry cloth a few 
minutes, then iron. 

To prevent starch from sticking, drop a small piece of 
alum in the starch when it is done, stir over the fire until it 
dissolves, then remove and add a teaspoonful of kerosene. 
This also keeps the colors bright in ginghams for a long 
time. 

A little salt in your starch will prevent it from blowing 
out of the clothes on windy days and will also prevent 
starch from freezing. It also keeps it from smelling musty 
or sour in hot weather. 

To prevent strach showing on black or dark colored goods 
add to it a little coffee, tea or black dye, and if to be used 
on blue goods, color the starch a deep blue by using plenty 
of MRS. STEWART'S BLUING. 

To keep brown holland from fading, put a little strong, 
cold tea in the starch. 

If, on account of dampness, frost or wind, the clothes are 
not as stiff as desired, sprinkle with a weak cold-starch in- 
stead of water. Roll up and do not iron for a few hours. 
They will then be found nice and stiff and will iron with a 
gloss. 



CHAPTER V. 
HINTS ON HANGING CLOTHES. 



The active only have the true relish of 
life. He who know^s not what it is to labor 
knows not what it is to enjoy. 

Joy. 





|a| 


^awii 



LWAYS have a clean clothesline. It should be 
taken down after each washing and wiped off 
with a clean damp cloth before hanging clothes 
on it again. Before using a new wash-line, boil" 
it a few minutes in soapy water and see how 



much longer it wnll last. 

It is a good plan to have a nail in a closet on which the 
line can be hung when not in use. This keeps it from getting 
soiled. Clothespins can be kept in the same place. 

Hang everything on the line wrong side out. This is 
particularly necessary in cities where soot is so much in 
evidence. — Flannels should be hung with the thickest part 
attached to the line, so the moisture will run from them and 
the piece dry more quickly. — Sheets should be hung on the 
line with the hems together, the hem edge pinned to the line. 
This prevents whipping and keeps sheets from pulling out 
of shape. — Make a cheeseclot4i bag in which to dry dainty 
small articles, such as doilies, embroidery and fine hand- 
kerchiefs. Place them carefully in the bag, tie them in with i 
a tape and pin bag on the line. — Hang pale colors in the 
shade, out of the direct rays of the sun. Never hang sweaters. 



Hints on hanging clothes. 31 

knitted shawls, etc., up to dry; they will sag, stretch and 
be ruined. Lay them on a clean cloth on the grass in the 
fresh air and sunshine. 

Take your clothes from the line as soon as possible after 
they are dry. They are likely to become too stiff if left out 
longer than necessary. 

In laundering skirts made of pique, cotton goods or of 
woolen material, pin them to the line by the waistband so 
they will hang straight down, instead of by the hem. If 
pinned at the top, the weight of the water prevents shrink- 
ing and keeps the skirt an even length. 

Clothes Driers. — The use of yard or veranda clothes 
driers is preferable to the old-fashioned way of walking 
back and forth through acres of wet grass. They are not 
expensive and they are clean, save time and are always 
ready. Hang the small pieces, such as kandkerchiefs, nap- 
kins and doilies on the inside. As the pieces get larger, 
hang them on the outside. Have a low platform to stand 
on when the grass is wet. 

Tack a piece of oilcloth over the bottom of your clothes- 
basket to keep snow and dirt from clogging the wicker- 
work and soiling the clothes. 

A camp-stool to hold the clothes-basket is a convenience 
on washing day. In hanging out the clothes and taking 
them from the line the stool saves stooping and keeps the 
bottom of the basket clean. 

A clothes bag instead of a clothes-basket is a great im- 
provement when taking clothes from the line. It can be 
made from two yards of heavy unbleached muslin. Make a 
deep strong hem at the top and fasten two hooks made of 
heavy wire and shaped like ordinary dress hooks, about 
eighteen inches apart on- this hem. When taking down the 
clothes the bag is hooked over the line and pushed along as 
the clothes are removed. There is no lifting, dragging or 
stooping. 



32 HOME LAUNDRY HINTS. 

The pulley clothes line is a great step saver. One pulle}^ 
can be attached to the porch, the other to a tree or post. 
It requires, of course, twice as much line as usual. 

To keep a clothesline from twisting, hold ball in the left 
hand and wind till a twist appears, then change it to the 
right hand and wind with the left hand. Keep doing this 
till the rope is wound. 

A grape basket for clothespins with a wire hook fastened 
to the handle is a time saver when hanging clothes, as it 
can be pushed along the line and the pins are always handy. 

Galvanized wire clothes pins are much handier than the 
wooden ones, and they will never rust. As they are always 
on the line, ready for use right where you need them, you 
do not have to break your back reaching down for the pins. 

To dry small clothes quickly, get a stick two inches square, 
and on all four sides drive in a few long wire nails. Put a 
staple or ring in one end and by this hang from ceiling over 
the kitchen range. Garments may then be hung on the nails 
and quickly dried. 

If clothing must be dried in the house, see that it is in a 
cold room, for heat turns underwear yellow and gives it an 
unwholesome odor. 

All articles to be ironed will have a better appearance if 
carefully folded when taken from the line. 

Hanging Clothes in Cold Weather. — Before going out in 
the cold to hang up clothes, wipe the hands dry and rub 
them well with cornstarch. Your hands then will not suffer 
with the cold. Small articles, such as collars, handkerchiefs, 
etc., should be pinned to a sheet before taking them out to 
the clothesline. 

When washing clothes in cold weather, put a handful of salt 
in the last rinsing water. While not entirely preventing 
freezing, it will nevertheless make the clothes easier to 
handle. 



HINTS ON HANGING CliOTHES. 33 



Heat the clothespins in the oven and they will retain 
sufficient warmth to keep the fingers comfortable. Make 
a clothes-pin apron to hold them and keep them warm. 

Another good idea is to have two hooks in the kitchen 
on whi(!h to fasten loops at the ends of a piece of clothes- 
line. Outdoors have hooks in posts exactly the same distance 
apart as those in the house. Put up the clothesline indoors 
and hang up the clothes; then take it down, carry it out in a 
basket, and put the line over the outdoor hooks, with clothes 
still pinned to it. Do not have the line too long or it will 
be too heavy to carry when the garments are wet. 

If women who have w^eak eyes would wear a pair of 
smoked or dark glasses while hanging out clothes they would 
be saved many headaches caused by the reflection of the sun 
on the clothes or on the dazzling white snow. 

Laundry Bags and Clothes Hampers. — Provide every per- 
son in the home a laundry bag in which soiled clothing may 
be placed from day to day; then when wash day comes, 
gather up the laundry bags and carry them down to the 
laundry. The dining room and kitchen, too, should each 
have a laundry bag, which should be hung where mice will 
not get in it. Do not permit wet cloths or greasy rags in 
the kitchen bag, for they may mildew and contaminate dust 
cloths and dish towels. 

The best laundry bag is made of a large piece of cretonne 
a yard or more square. At each of the four corners sew 
large brass rings or else make loops of strong tape four 
inches long, and hang on a nail by all four corners, thus 
leaving four openings. A bag of this sort cannot conceal 
anything when it is spread out flat. 

An excellent clothes hamper which costs less and lasts 
longer than the willow ones, is made of a small barrel, 
covered with fancy cretonne. Lay the cretonne in plaits 
and tack at top and bottom. Tack cretonne over the cover 
and make a handle to raise it. 



CHAPTER VI. 
IRONING. 



Work thou thy smallest work with all thy 
might, 

All work well done, is one in One's just 
sight. 




jTARCHED clothes are easier to iron if sprinkled 
with hot water half an hour before ironing. 
The hot water spreads better and does not spot 
them. Keep prints and colored goods away 
from white things which they are likely to 
stain, and in summer do not let them lie any longer than 
necessary, as starched clothes mildew quickly. 

With shirts, dampen bosom, cuffs and collar by rubbing 
both sides with damp cloth. Collars and cuffs can be damp- 
ened and rolled up in damp cloths. Stockings are not 
sprinkled. 

A large salt shaker makes a good sprinkler, or you can 
make one of a fruit jar with half a dozen very small holes 
punched in the top with a nail. First break the porcelain 
lining of the cover. 

A good way to sprinkle clothes is to do so before taking 
them off the line. Sprinkle them evenly and thoroughly 
with a clean whisk broom kept only for that purpose. Then 
take out the pins on the sheets and tablecloths and draw 
the lower edges perfectly even, when they may be easily 
folded for ironing before putting them in the basket. 



IRONING. 35 



One woman, instead of sprinkling napkins, wrings every 
third napkin out of hot water ,then rolls all together. In a 
few minutes they are ready to iron. 

When you need to iron some clothes in a hurry and have 
no tim*e to dampen them as usual, try wringing a clean 
Turkish towel in lukewarm water, spread over the article 
you wish to dampen, roll up for a few minutes, or wring all 
together, and the moisture from the towel will make the 
article ready for ironing in a very short time. 

Ironing Day Hints. — Let ironing day come as soon after 
wash day as possible, so clothes will not be soiled by lying 
around. 

Ironing day may be made less tiresome by a little fore- 
thought on the part of the housewife. Never put linen 
pieces through the wringer if you would avoid the little 
wrinkles that are so hard to press out. Small tucks will 
iron smoother and look better if ironed on the wrong side. 
If knit wear, bath towels, etc., when taken from the lines are 
smoothed with the hands and placed on the bars to air, they 
will be ready to put away by the time the bars are needed 
for the ironed clothes. 

For ironing days a fire of cinders is better than fresh coal. 

While ironing stand on a piece of old carpet or folded 
comfort and the feet will not get so tired. 

Irons. — The best irons for all around use are the Sad irons 
with iron handles and steel bottoms, though many prefer 
the newer styles with polished bottoms and detachable 
wood handles. These are indeed easier on the hands and 
are preferable for some work, but they do* not hold the heat 
as well as the old-fashioned kind. 

Care of Flatirons. — When flatirons are not in use keep 
each one tied up in a tight fitting woolen bag or old 
stocking top. This prevents them from becoming rusty 
or rough. Rub them occasionally on a piece of cedar when 



36 HOME LAUNDRY HINTS. 

ironing to keep the starch from sticking. The odor is agree- 
able and it will not discolor the most delicate fabric. 

When heating irons be careful not to get any dirt, black- 
ing, etc., on them. When ironing ml) the iron in salt each 
time before replacing on fire . 

Turn an old pan or kettle over irons which are being 
heated and they will get hot much quicker. This also keeps 
the room cooler. 

To heat an iron on the grate without smutting it on the 
coals, lay a stove lid on the coals, and set the iron on this. 
Both will soon be heated through. 

Ordinary irons, when heated over gas. must be carefully 
wiped before they become very warm. The hydrogen of 
the gas unites with the oxygen of the air and condenses in 
the form of water on the surface of the cold metal, and if 
it is not wiped off turns to rust. If you use the pyramid 
shaped racks on gas stove to heat irons, be sure to have an 
additional iron in use so as to keep rack full at times; other- 
wise the empty space acting as a chimney draws the heat 
away from the irons. 

When through ironing stand irons on end till cool and 
put away in a clean dry place. If irons are not to be used 
again for some time, grease the polished surface with mut- 
ton tallow, which prevents rusting. 

Flatirons should not be put into the steam of cooking, as 
that causes them to rust. Irons that have once been red 
hot never retain the heat so well afterward, and will always 
be rough. While losing no opportunity of using the fire, 
be careful not to put irons on the stove hours before they 
are needed, and after using them, do not set them away flat 
on the floor or shelf, but always on end. 

If irons have become rusted, scour the rusty surface with 
scouring soap, rubbing it on with a piece of flannel. If the 



IRONING. 



rust is deep, wipe and rub with a piece of very fine sand- 
paper and finish by rubbing with emery cloth. Lastly, rub 
the entire iron with hot soapsuds, wipe dry and set on stove 
till hot, then put in dry place, away from steam or dampness 
of any kind. 

Use cotton holders for irons. \\'oolen ones are hot to 
the hand and if scorched, as the}^ so often are, the smell is 
very disagreeable. 

A single thickness of asbestos cloth between squares of 
cloth makes the best kind of an iron holder. 

The Ironing Table. — This should be firm and steady, 
covered smoothly with at least two thicknesses of blanket or 
similar material. A layer of newspapers is as good as a 
blanket for padding an ironing board. On top should be 
a heavy cotton cloth which can be removed when dirty. 
Have no seams or patches under the ironing surface. 

The ordinary ironing board does very well for skirts; but 
sleeves require a small oval board held up in the air by two 
wooden supports attached to a square board of approximately 
the same size below. This allows the sleeve to hang free. 
Any man or boy handy with tools can make it. The bosom 
board for ironing shirts needs to be small and oblong, and 
the board for ironing embroidered pieces may be any size 
if heavily padded. In case there are but three boards in use,, 
it is well to have a padded cover ready to slip on one of the 
other boards. Then there should be a small rolling pin or 
broomstick smoothly and tightly covered. 

Use old sheets for ironing cloths, and instead of tacking 
them to the board sew tapes on the sides. It takes only a 
minute to whisk off a cloth and tie on another one, and by 
changing the cloth every other week the board is always 
clean. Bore a hole in the small end of the board to hang 
it up when not in use. 

Wool blankets hold moisture and sometimes make the 
clothes hard to iron dry, so a good plan is to cover the top 



38 H03IE L.AUNDRY HINTS. 

with a thick layer of cotton batting — one pound will be suf- 
ficient — then cover with one thickness of cotton flannel. 

Another good plan is to have the ironing board padded 
on both sides and covered with a snugly fitting case of strong 
muslin, open at the large end, to be slipped over all and 
tacked tightly to the board. One side is used for the white 
articles and the other for the colored garments that may 
possibly soil the case by the hot iron setting their colors 
upon it. 

Tack a pocket on the under side of your ironing-board, 
in which to keep your ironing-cloths, stand, paraffine, etc. 
Put a button ?nd buttonhole on it, so the things will not fall 
out when it is turned upside down. 

Spread a large piece of paper on the floor under the iron- 
ing table to protect the large pieces that may hang over on 
the floor. 

Always have near the ironing board a dish of clear cold 
water, so any spot imperfectly ironed can be wet with a 
soft sponge or fine cloth, thus removing any surplus starch 
and, if necessary, it can be ironed again. 

Have everything ready when you begin ironing and try 
the iron on a white cloth before using. A piano stool raised 
to the proper height, saves a lot of strength. 

On removing the iron from the fire rub it on a damp 
cloth, then quickly on a wax cloth and" then on a clean cloth. 
This will insure perfect success. Touch the bottom of the 
iron with a wet finger; if it hisses it is hot and the greater 
the heat the shorter the hiss. 

If you think the iron likely to scorch, never wet it to cool 
it, as that spoils the temper. Wait a few minutes for it to 
cool naturally. Use wax freely on irons to keep them from 
sticking. If out of wax use oiled or paraftine paper or fold 
several thicknesses of newspaper saturated with kerosene. 

It is a fine plan to mark the irons with chalk, 1, 2, 3, etc., 
using them in rotation. 



IRONING. 39 



Muslins are ironed on the right side, prints, dotted mus- 
lins, and embroideries on the wrong side; table linens, 
doilies, etc., on both sides. They should not be toe dty or 
the surface will be rough instead of smooth. Have iron very 
hot foi* table linen and muslins, and not as warm for prints. 
Heavy irons can be used for ironing straight work such as 
table linen, etc., and light ones for ruffles, embroideries, etc. 
Iron rapidly in a good light so as to be sure not to scorch 
the goods. H a wrinkle is made when ironing, dampen it 
with a wet cloth and smooth out. A slight scorch may be 
removed by immediately washing the spot over several 
thicknesses of white cloth. The white cloths absorb the 
scorch and should be moved frequently. Carefully iron 
around any buttons or hooks, making as few folds as is 
necessary. 

A folded turkish towel makes an excellent pad for iron- 
ing embroideries. Rows of buttons may also be ironed on 
such a pad, using the iron on the wrong side. All articles 
must be stretched carefully into shape while ironed. Articles 
with trimming should be ironed so as to have the trimming 
on top. 

After ironing hang articles on clotheshorse till perfectly 
dry. It is a good plan to use two clothes bars, hanging on 
one the clothes that are in perfect order, on the other, those 
that need mending, darning, buttons, etc. This saves sort- 
ing later when some defects may be overlooked. The clothes 
should hang on bars over night to air and dry, before being 
laid away to use. 

In summer always have a piece of mosquito-netting to 
throw over the clothes as they hang on the horse. Never 
lay them in the basket until they are thoroughly dry and 
aired. 

Ironing Shirts, Dresses, Skirts, Etc. — In ironing shirts, 
the neckband, cuffs, and the rest of shirt should 
be done quickly, leaving the bosom until the last. 



40 HOME L-AUNDBY HINTS. 



Have the covering on the bosom board elastic rather than 
hard. Be sure your irons are smooth and well waxed and 
hot enough for the work required, but not too hot. If yel- 
low streaks appear, the iron is dirty, too cold, or not waxed. 
If the work gives a streak of polish and one of dull, run a 
piece of damp cheesecloth over the surface, then heat, clean 
and wax the iron again. 

Mode of Polishing. — Place the bosom, cuff or collar on the 
board and dampen the surface evenly and quickly with a 
cloth wrung out of cold water; then wipe the article quickly 

with a dry cloth. This gives the work a fine polish. Damp- 
en again as before, then iron rapidly over the article with 
heel down and iron at an angle of 45 degrees, until yoii have 
a beautiful porcelain finish. 

To avoid breaking turnover collars, dampen a narrow 
space on both sides where the collar is to be turned. After 
a few minutes gradually turn and mould, then iron. 

Domestic finish on shirts is obtained by rubbing a damp 
cloth over the highly polished surface, or by passing it an 
instant over the steam from the tea kettle. 

Dresses should be ironed, the sleeves and neckband first, 
then the rest of the body, and last of all the skirt. If the 
dress has both an upper and a lower skirt, iron the lower 
one first. 

In ironing a skirt, begin with rufflles, pressing down quick- 
ly and firmly with curving sweep of the iron to the left, then 
bands, sleeves, yoke, or tucked portions of the garment, and 
lastly the plain part. A heavy skirt should be hung from the 
line in the open air to dry after being ironed, otherwise it 
may be creased or wrinkled. A waist should be hung on a 
coat frame, either wooden, or covered so as to prevent rust 
spots. Linen dresses will keep their stiffness longer and look 
fresher if they ,are hung in a dry closet as soon as they are 
ironed. 

Skirts must never be ironed across the gores, but up and 
down; otherwise the fit of the garment is ruined. 



IRONING. 41 



Ironing Table Cloths, Sheets, Etc. — Table linen should be 

ironed iirst on the right side and then on the wrong side. 
It will be necessary to iron one fold down the center and 

perhaps one across the width of the cloth. The cloth should 

now be merely folded (not ironed,) for the balance of the 

necessary folds. This will make it last longer. Some women 

instead of folding table linen, have rolls of paper made three 

inches longer than the width of the cloth, and the cloth is 

rolled on this as soon as ironed. 

Two persons are really needed to get a tablecloth in readi- 
ness to iron. Let each take an end of the cloth and see that 
the hem on one side lies directly over the hem on the other 
side, with the selvages coming together. Then stretch the 
cloth, gathering it a little in the hands at the ends if needed. 
Make sure that the selvages are even, then the lengthwise 
fold will be even. Put a table back of the ironing board, or 
else place a clean sheet or paper on the floor beneath. Spread 
one end of the cloth on the ironing board, and dispose of 
the rest on the table or floor. Use a heavy iron and move 
it slowly and carefully up and down with the warp, until 
wrinkles disappear, making sure that the selvages and hems 
are together. Press hard and iron as rapidly as possible, 
and continue till cloth is nearly dry, then iron a new part in 
the same way till nearly to the end of the cloth. Make hems 
straight and even and iron from hems toward ironed portion 
to remove any extra fullness. Now turn the cloth and iron 
on the other side till dry. Lay a large pasteboard roll on 
the nearest end of the cloth and after seeing that it is 
even, roll, pressing the linen in front of the roll with the 
iron. Lift the cloth now and then to keep it straight. 

In ironing table linen always iron with the grain of the 
cloth and you will get a much higher polish. 

Doilies should be ironed with the threads, and if ironed 
on the wrong side, over soft padding, the pattern will stand 



43 HOME IpAUNDBY HINTS. 

out better. 

Embroidery ironed on the wrong side over a folded turkish 
towel will stand out better and this plan can also be used 
for the back of a waist with many small buttons. 

Make a roll for centerpieces from a curtain pole covered 
thickly and smoothly with cotton wadding and white muslin. 
Roll the pieces smoothly on this and tie with ribbon. 

In pressing centerpieces, iron the center before the edges, 
and the article will lie smoothly. This rule also applies to 
ironing handkerchiefs. 

Fringed Napkins, Towels, Bed Spreads, Etc. — Gently whip 
and snap the edges to disentangle the fringe, and when ready 
to iron repeat the snapping. Then lay the napkin on the 
ironing board and with a stiff brush, brush out the fringe. 
Iron the center, and when this is dry, the fringe. Brush out 
again after ironing, and if necessar}^ trim with scissors. Bath 
towels should never be ironed. 

To iron tatting or lace bordered handkerchiefs, wash and 
rinse them as usual, then with a clean whisk broom, gently 
brush the wet handkerchiefs onto a mirror or pane of glass 
until there are no wrinkles in the linen and the tatting or 
lace is flat but not stretched out of shape. This method 
pulls and arranges the picots and the lace edge perfectly 
with very little work. It must be quite dry before removing 
from the glass. Unless the linen center is heavy no pressing 
with a hot iron is necessary. 

To iron silk, sprinkle the articles to be ironed with' water 
and then roll them tightly in a towel. After this it is easy 
to iron out the creases. Do not use a very hot iron as silk 
quickly discolors. Pongee should always be ironed when it 
is perfectly dry, and with a warm, not hot iron. 

To make linen fold evenly when ironed, sheets and pillow- 
cases should be torn by a thread the size desired, but table- 
cloths and napkins should be cut by a thread. If the materi- 



IRONING. 43 



al is shrunk before hemming, it will always fold evenly 
when ironed. 

Ironing Waists. — Iron the sleeves first, and by using a 
small iron you will find it possible to iron them without 
creasing, even if you do not possess a sleeve board. Then 
iron the body of the waist, doing the tucks and plain part, 
first on the right side, leaving for the last the embroidery 
and lace, which should be ironed on the wrong side. 

To iron the tucks nicely, start at the shoulder, holding 
the waist at the bottom of the tucks firmly with the left hand, 
to straighten them, and be careful not to use too hot an iron. 

To iron a tailored shirt-waist, iron the collarband first on 
the right side, then on the wrong, till perfectly dry. Next 
turn the waist inside out and lay it on the board with the 
back down; the right side of waist will be up. Begin to iron 
between shoulders to collar, across back to sleeves, around 
neck across shoulder seams toward fronts to about same 
depth as across back. This gives a bulge to front of shoul- 
ders. Then turn the waist around and iron the remainder 
of fronts; turn again, and iron remainder of back and under 
arms. Finally, iron a cufif and up on sleev.e-opening until 
almost dry, then turn the sleeve right side out, finish cuff 
and iron sleeve. If these directions are followed, the waist 
will be right side out when last sleeve is turned and will not 
be wrinkled. 

For a plaited skirt first iron the garment without regard 
to the plaits, then go over it a second time pulling each 
plait straight and smooth on the board; in heavy materials 
a damp cloth may be passed over the plait before the iron. 
Fasten a spring clothes pin at the bottom of each plait and 
hang by the belt until all dampness is gone. 

Before ironing the baby's flannels take care to have them 
thoroughly dry; then wet one yard of coarse cheesecloth, 
put it over the flannel, and iron till the garment is dry. 



44 HOME L.AUNDBY HINTS. 

Jabots Hints. — Dissolve a pinch of granulated sugar in a 
basin of water and wring the articles out in it. Roll them 
in a cloth and let them lie for half an hour. When ironed 
they will look like new. 

The plaited jabots should have the plaits firmly basted into 
place with fine stitches before being washed, and it is better 
to baste just at the bottom edge, so the lines of the thread 
won't show when it is ironed. When ironing, begin at the 
bottom, pulling it gently from the top. The plaits adjust 
themselves. 

The fading of colored articles is due often, not to the 
washing, but to the ironing. If too hot irons are used direct- 
ly on the material, this will fade delicate colors more quickly 
than any amount of washing. The effect is even worse than 
strong sunlight. Be sure that the article is evenly damp- 
ened and that the iron is only hot enough to smooth the 
wrinkles properly by firm, even pressure. 

Silk ties, if wanted stiff should be ironed while quite damp, 
and if soft and silky, let them become almost dry. This idea 
also applies to waists. 

A round bottle filled with hot water is superior to a flatiron 
for pressing seams in delicate goods. 

When the ribbon bows on a hat get mussed, instead of 
using a sleeve-board, heat the bowl of a large kitchen spoon 
and press the bows from the inside. 

If a new silk skirt has considerable "dressing" in it, press 
it all over with a hot iron before wearing. This will take 
out the stiffness and prevent it from cracking, especially 
along the folds near the seams, where a ready-made skirt first 
begins to break. New creases will form in different places 
each time it is pressed and the silk will wear much longer. 





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CHAPTER VII. 
REMOVING STAINS. 

Out. damned spot! Out, I say. 

Macbeth act V., scene I. 

Cleanliness is the elegance of the poor. 




^N removing stains, a great deal of patience is 
7 often required, especially if the stains are old. 
!Sfl Use caution with cleaning fluids, and do not 
use them at night, or near a fire or light, as 
there is great danger of explosion. Some clean- 
ing fluids are poisonous and they must be carefully labeled 
and kept from children. 

When cleaning spots, run a thread around them so as to 
be able to find them easily after the garment is wet. 

Before using any cleaner try it first on the inside of a 
seam to see whether it will change the color. 

When removing spots with a sponge or cloth, clean to the 
edge of the garment so no unsightly circle will be left. 
Sponge from outside of the spot towards the center and use 
a piece of clean white blotting paper under the material. 

Put a thick pad of cheesecloth or other soft material under- 
neath the spot to absorb the dirt that soaks through the gar- 
ment, otherwise the grease will spread over the garment, 
making the spot larger than before, although not quite so 
dense. 

If a ring is left after using gasoline or benzine, spread 
French chalk on it and place it in the sun, steam the spot 



46 HOME LAUNDRY HINTS. 



over the teakettle or lay a piece of white tissue paper over 
the spot and iron. 

When sponging cloth, use a piece of the same goods if 
possible. Roll up a strip of the same material and tie about 
the middle. Dip either end in the cleaning fluid and rub 
article to be cleaned. 

When cleaning by a soaking process, remove the goods 
frequently and dry them in the light and air, returning them 
to the bath again if necessary, for some strong compounds 
may rot the goods if left in the bath. If treated with poison- 
ous chemicals wash thoroughly afterwards. 

To raise the nap of goods after cleaning, place a wet piece 
of the same material over the spot and iron with a hot iron. 
The piece will adhere and the nap raise when pulled apart. 

CLEANING FLUIDS. 

A good cleaning fluid for nearly all materials is made of 
equal parts of ether, ammonia and alcohol. Keep corked and 
do not use near a light or fire. Another good recipe: Shave 
four ounces white castile soap and add one quart boiling 
water. When cold add four ounces ammonia and two 
ounces each of alcohol, ether, and glycerine. Cork tightly. 
It will keep a long time, and is safe to use. Dilute one 
half when sponging cloth. 

Cleaning Fluid for Men's Clothes, especially coat collars. 
Mix a pint of deodorized benzine, Yz drachm chloroform, 
one drachm alcohol and a little cologne. Apply with a piece 
of soft silk. 

Alcohol dissolves many stains and those which resist this 
treatment may be removed by boiling water poured through 
or by salts of lemon applied for a few minutes before the 
boiling water is poured on, and then rinsed in ammonia v/ater. 

Ammonia is one of the best of cleaners, particularly if 
used with warm soap suds. It does not explode and one 
need not be afraid to use too much. It is particularly good 



REMOVING STAINS. 47 

for fresh spots, for cleaning- laces and colored embroidery, 
grease spots on children's clothes, and to brighten carpets. 
It brightens glassware, china and paint and a few drops 
used when watering plants is beneficial. 

Soap 'bark is an excellent cleaner especially for woolen 
clothes. Put a little 'in a small cheese-cloth bag and use as 
a sponge with a dish of warm water. After using wipe with 
a dry cloth. 

Gasoline and Benzine. — These are valuable cleaning agents 
but as they are very liable to explode, they are safe only 
when used out of doors, and must not be used in a room in 
which there is a light or a fire as the fumes can cause ex- 
plosions when more than twenty feet from any flame. If 
used indoors, all the windows should be opened as some 
persons are overcome by its fumes, and the room must be 
aired before any flame is struck. 

Gasoline is of value for cleaning kid gloves, belts, slippers, 
etc,; for ribbons, silks, chiffon, velvet, etc. After using, let 
the gasoline stand out doors a short time and the dirt will 
settle to the bottom. The clean gasoline on top may be used 
again. 

To remove odor of gasoline, if it remains after the goods 
are thoroughly dry, place them in a warm — not hot — oven 
and the odor will disappear. 

When cleaning clothes with gasoline, use a brush instead 
of a rag to apply it. This is much more effective. 

An excellent cleaner is made by preparing a mixture of 
gasoline and flour; dip the articles and scrub thoroughly, 
hang till dry, then by shaking gently all the dirt will come 
out with the flour. 

Javelle Water. — 1 pound sal soda, or preferably pearl ash, 
J4 pound chloride of lime, 2 quarts cold water. Mix thor- 
oughly and let it stand several hours. Pour off clear liquid 
and bottle for use. Keep in a dark, cool place. 



48 HOME LAUNDRY HINTS. 

To use Javelle water, stretch the stained article and rub the 
fiquid into it, rinse quickly in clear water and brush again 
if necessary. Finally rinse in ammonia water, which is im- 
portant. 

Dampened starch and powdered chalk are used for stains 
on goods which cannot be laundered. Spread thickly on the 
spot and lay in the sun for several hours. Then brush ofif 
and if stain still remains repeat process. 

Another good cleanser for white lace waists, light silk 
shawls and laces is a mixture of borax and flour. Roll the 
articles closely in a white cloth and let lie for a few days, 
then shake. The cleaning preparation may be used repeat- 
edly. 

To remove obstinate stains from any kind of white goods. 
Put a tablespoonful of sulphur on a plate, moisten it with 
pure alcohol and ignite. Cover with a tin funnel; wet the 
stained portion of the goods and hold over small hole in 
funnel. Allow the fumes to reach every part of the stain, 
then rinse in clear water to which has been added a little 
ammonia, after which it may be laundered as usual. 

DRY CLEANING. 

Dry cleaning is not what the average person thinks it is, 
for it does not mean cleaning with dry powders, but instead, 
the immersion of the garment in a fluid other than water, 
such as gasoline, benzine, naptha, chloroform, ether, turpen- 
tine, etc. It is hard to understand how a process which in- 
volves immersion of the articles in a liquid can be a "dry" 
one, but articles immersed in the liquids employed in the 
"dry" cleaning process are not "wetted" in the ordinary 
acceptance of the term: For example, an elaborately trimmed 
gown washed in benzine, retains its shape in every way, but 
the same article immersed in water would become a shape- 
less mass; a piece of accordion-pleated material retains the 
pleating in benzine, but loses it in water. 



REMOVING STAINS. 49 

Shrinkage is due to two causes: First, most of the sub- 
stances employed in the dressing of finished fabrics are 
soluble in water; and second, the fibres absorb the water, 
becoming hydrated and considerably modified in their phy- 
sical properties. The water causes the fibers to become 
limp and in many cases to alter in shape and size, the diam- 
eters of the ultimate fibres increasing and the lengths of the 
threads contracting eonsiderably. Thus the relative positions 
of the fibres and threads are altered, and with them the 
shape of the fabric. 

In this book, the approved methods for "dry" cleaning are 
given under the headings of the goods to be cleaned or the 
kind of spots or stains to be removed. 

Removing Stains. — Special Instructions. 

Acid Spots. Touch the spots with ammonia. 

Alkali Spots. Moisten with vinegar or tartaric acid. 

Axle Grease. Rub on lard and let stand, then wash out. 

Blood. Two teaspoonsful of glycerine in a quart of cold 
water will greatly facilitate the work of removing blood 
stains. Soak in cold water till stain turns brown, then use 
soap and warm water. If this does not remove it use per- 
oxide of hydrogen or Javelle water. Starch will remove blood 
stains from silk or cotton if applied immediately. 

Another method is to steep the stained part in lukewarm 
water until the spots are softened. Then get pepsin and 
place some of it on the stain. It will digest the blood so 
that it can be washed out easily. 

Bluing. If too much is used in rinsing water, add a little 
ammonia. Boiling will remove spots or streaks of bluing. 

Brass. Rub lard or olive oil on stain, then wash with warm 
water and soap. 

Cocoa. Soak in cold water then treat as for coffee stains. 

Cod Liver Oil. Put a little aqua ammonia into the suds in 
which the goods are washed. 



50 HOME LAUNDftV HINTS. 

Coffee. Pour absolutely boiling water on stain from a 
height, having first stretched stained part over a dish or 
saucepan, and fastened with clothespins so as not to scald 
the left hand. Repeat several times. To prevent the place 
from having a yellowish tinge sprinkle some powdered borax 
over the spot after the stain is removed and then rinse it out. 
Some rub butter on the stain before using the hot water. 
Sulphur fumes are excellent for coffee steins. Or you can 
rub the spots with pure glycerine and rinse afterward in luke- 
warm water. 

Egg Stains. Soak in cold water. 

Fruit. Alcohol softens most fruit stains, especially if it 
is warmed over hot water. Soaking in milk is also effica- 
cious. After softening the stain use boiling water, or better 
yet boiling milk after the manner used in removing coffee 
stains. Dampened powdered starch applied instantly will 
take out almost any fruit stain from wash goods if left for 
several hours. If stain is very obstinate try sulphur fumes, 
Javelle water or oxalic acid. The removal of the stains is 
assisted greatly by placing the goods outdoors on the green 
grass or thawing snow, which bleaches them out. Fruit 
stains can be removed from the hands by rubbing them 
with raw tomatoes and salt, or lemon juice and salt. 

Some fruit and wine stains, especially those of apple and 
pear, and some clarets, are very difficult to remove. If they 
are boiled gently (after soaking) in some strong borax and 
water, well rinsed, then hung out dripping wet in the sun- 
shine, or during a frosty night, the stains will sometimes 
disappear. 

Glue. Rub well with a cloth dipped in vinegar. 

Grass. Rub with alcohol, milk or molasses if goods can- 
not be washed. If on delicate colors, use diluted ammonia. 
Or saturate the article well with kerosene (coal oil) and then 
wash it well with good soap and water. If lard is rubbed 



REMOVING STAINS. ^ 



on the stain and allowed to stay a while, and is then washed 
with soap and water, it also will remove grass stams. 

Grease and Oil. Wash with cold water and soap if pos- 
sible Often the spot will come out by simply ironing 
throu.-^h brown paper, or with blotting paper. Cover the 
spot with powdered chalk then brown paper and place a ho 
iron on it until it cools. Yolk of egg will loosen dirt and 
o-rease and alcohol softens it, the latter being especially good 
for candle grease. Dilute ammonia or benzme are good, or 
wash with a good white soap after soaking in gasoline. On 
woolen cloth, a burnt crust rubbed with the grain, will remove 
grease. Sewing machine oil may be removed with kerosene 
or benzine. See also Axle Grease and Vaselme. 

Take a piece of clean brown paper, and rub the grease 
spot quickly with it, rubbing hard enough to cause some 

heat by friction. 

To remove grease from silks, take a lump of magnesia, 
rub it wet on the spot, let dry and then brush the powder off. 
Alum water is f^ne for grease spots. Make a saturated 
solution of alum and water. When ready to use put it on 
the stove and let it get very hot. Apply it to the spot ^nth 
a sponge or brush. 

Alcohol and Salt have been found good to remove grease 
from clothes, when applied with a sponge or flannel rag to 
the spot Take four tablespoonsful of alcohol and one table- 
spoonful of salt. Mix these and shake together until the 
salt is dissolved. Then use as required. 

Gum or Sugar. Dissolve with warm water, or if not wash- 
al)le with weak alcohol, or sponge with gasoline. . _ 

Ice Cream. To remove from silk, sponge the stamed 
parts with gasoline or chloroform, placing a pad o absorbent 
cottonor blotting paper under the spots. When dry, sponge 
with tepid water and a good soap, and then rub with a 
flannel cloth until dry. Use strong coffee to remove stains 
from black clothing. 



52 HOME LAUNDRY HINTS. 

Ink. As soon as spilled, soak with blotting paper and 
throw salt on it, to absorb as much as possible. If on white 
goods wash in lemon juice and salt, or vinegar and salt, or 
wash in kerosene. If on colored goods, soak in sweet or 
sour milk for several days, or use ammonia water, Javelle 
water, or oxalic acid, but this may remove the color. 

To remove ink stains from wash goods rub with the yolk 
of an egg before washing. 

Equal parts of alum and cream of tartar will take out the 
ink stains without injuring the color of the materials. Mix 
moisten with water and spread it on the spots. Repeat 
until they disappear. 

To remove ink from silk, hold a lighted candle so that the 
wax falls on the spots. When the wax cools, scrape it off, 
and the ink comes also. The mark left by the wax is re- 
moved by placing a clean bit of blotting paper over it and 
pressing lightly with a hot iron. If the goods are washable, 
melt a piece of mutton tallO'W and immerse the spots in it 
when the fat is hot, then wash the garment as usual. 

Use a ripe tomato for ink on table linen. Squeeze the 
juice from the tomato on the spot of ink and work the juice 
into the spot. Rinse, then apply the juice again and con- 
tinue until the stain disappears. This will remove other 
stains also. 

Saturate the spot with milk and then with turpentine, 
letting it stand several hours and then rub it well. This 
does not injure the color. Copying ink is hardest to re- 
move, but peroxide of hydrogen may help. 

Red Ink. Wash with ammonia and cold water, or Javelle 
water. 

Purple Ink. Rub with equal parts alcohol and glycerine. 

Indelible Ink. Soak in soft water, and wash with am- 
monia, or use cyanide of potash (a poison) one part, in 25 
of water. 

Ink Stains on Books may be removed without injury to 
the print by oxalic acid. • 

Fresh ink on carpets disappears by an application of salt, 
afterwards rubbing with a cloth dipped in milk. 

Ammonia removes ink on fingers. 



REMOVING STAINS. 63 

Iodine. Soak in chloroform or ether, or rub with am- 
monia, or cover stain with cornstarch wet in cold water or 
milk. Let stand until all stain disappears, changing corn- 
starch if necessary. 

Iron Rust. Soak in lemon juice and salt and lay in sun. 
If not*removed repeat the process, or make a paste of lemon 
juice, starch and salt, and let lie in the sun. 

Cut a tomato in two and rub on the spot, then put in the 
hot sun. Or take one teaspoonful hydrochloric acid to 
two teaspoonsful warm water and apply to spots. The latter 
however will take out the color of the goods. As soon as 
stain is gone rinse thoroughly. 

Place a small lump of cream of tartar on the spot of iron 
rust, and tie up the article, so as to hold the cream of tartar 
on the spot. After boiling, the clothes will be perfectly 
white and free from spots. 

Kerosene. Cover stain with hot Fuller's earth for two 
hours and then brush off. 

Lamp Black. Use kerosene and wash with soap and water. 

Medicine Stains. Soak in alcohol. 

Mildew. This is extremely difficult to remove. Soak in 
strong lemon juice and salt, vinegar and salt, or buttermilk, 
and let lie in the sunshine; you may have to repeat this 
several times. Soap the spots and hang on the line in the 
sun, or lay on the grass for a few days. Soft soap is best 
for this purpose. Soak in alcohol or rub lard on the stained 
parts and spread in the sun; bringing the linen in at night 
so that no dew or rain shall fall on it. If nothing else is 
successful use chloride of lime. Take a heaping teaspoon- 
ful in a quart of cold water; stir with a stick till dissolved, 
then strain two or three times. Immerse mildewed articles 
till the spots begin to disappear being careful not to get the 
hands in the solution. Spread the goods in the sun. If 
spots are still visible when dry, repeat process. This de- 
stroys color, so will not do for colored goods. 

Milk or Cream. Wash in cold water and soap thoroughly. 
If the spots are lightly touched with ammonia and then 
ironed over blotting paper, they will disappear. 

Mucus Stains. Soak in ammonia water and wash in cold 
water and soap; afterwards boil. In case of a bad cold in 



54 HOME LAUNDRY HINTS, 

the family soak for several hours in a strong solution of 
boracic acid. 

Mud Stains on dark clothing which cannot be removed by 
brushing, may disappear if rubbed w^ith raw potato. 

Oil — See also Grease. To remove oil from white goods, 
place the article in a basin, sprinkle powdered borax over the 
stain, then pour boiling water over the same. Let remain a 
few minutes, then take out and rinse. 

Paint, Fresh. If goods cannot be washed, soak in kero- 
sene, benzine or naphtha. If wet paint on clothing is 
rubbed by another piece of the same material, the stain will 
usually disappear. 

Paint, Dry. Soften with lard or oil, and wash. If goods 
cannot be washed use gasoline or turpentine, or better still, 
equal parts of ammonia and turpentine. Hot vinegar re- 
moves it from cotton clothing. 

The oil of the orange-skin will remove paint and varnish 
from the hands. 

Peach Stains on Table Linen. Rub glycerine over the 
stains two or three days before washing. 

Perspiration. Soak in strong soap suds and let lie in sun- 
shine for several days, or use javelle water on white goods 
only. 

To remove perspiration stain from silk waists, sponge, 
then cover with powdered chalk, let it dry, then brush off. 

Rust Stains. These are often caused by impure bluing. 
By using MRS. STEWARTS BLUING you will avoid 
trouble, but be sure all the soap is well rinsed out before 
bluing. 

Try sponging the spots with peroxide of hydrogen. This 
chemical should not be used on colored silk, as it would 
fade it. Sponge the latter with equal parts of alcohol and 
chloroform to which there have been added a few drops of 
ammonia. Experiment first. 

Scorch. A slight scorch may be removed by hanging in 
the sun, or dip in a hot solution of l)orax and hang in the sun. 
Extract juice from a peeled onion, by pounding. Add two 
ounces of soda; one-half pint of vinegar and two ounces 
of Fuller's earth. Boil ten minutes, and strain. Spread this 
on scorch and let dry, repeating process if necessary. See 
also Iron-Rust and chapter on Ironing. 



REMOVING STAINS. 55 



Shoe Polish. To remove shoe polish from wash goods, 
soak spots in sweet milk before wetting in water. 

Tar. Remove same as paint. Kerosene or benzine can 
also be used. 

Tea Stains. Immerse in a strong solution of sugar and 
water. After a few minutes rinse the spots m soft water, 
or you can rub with cold water first, then proceed as for 
coffee stains. Soaking in milk and warm water is also 
effective. Heap salt on the spot, rub hard, then rmse m hot 
water in which some borax has betn dissolved. 

Urine Stains. Treat with alcohol or dilute citric acid; 
restore color with chloroform. 

Varnish. Wet with turpentine and after a moment, sponge 
with clean cloth. If delicate colors,^ use chloroform. 

Vaseline Stains. Soap and water is often all that is neces- 
sary, but stain cannot be removed after boiling. If obstm- 
ate, wash with turpentine or kerosene or soak in alcohol. 

Wax or Tallow. Scrape off as much as possible, then 
place brown wrapping paper or blotting paper above and 
below spot and quickly iron with warm iron, immediately 
removing paper. This melts wax and it is absorbed by 
blotting paper. If any color is left from coloring in wax, 
use alcohol. 

To take out Whitewash Spots. Rub the spot with strong 
vinegar. 

Wine Stains. If from red wine, cover with damp salt and 
place out doors in sun and dew, or after leaving salt on stain 
for a time, use boiling water (or milk) as for coffee stains. 
If from yellow wine, wash first in cold water then with soap 
and water. 

To Whiten Yellowed Goods. Table cloths, napkins, etc.. 
sometimes become yellow from lying unused. Put them to 
soak in a pan of buttermilk for a day or two, changing once 
or twice. Afterwards blue with MRS. STEWART'S BLU- 
ING. Or rub lard on the stained parts and spread in the 
sun, being careful to bring the linen in at night so that no 
dew or rain shall fall on it. Leave it out for a ^yeek, then 
wash in the usual way. This process will not injure the 
finest linen. 




CHAPTER VIII. 
TO SET AND FRESHEN COLORS. 

All that's bright must fade — 

The brightest still the fleetest; 
All that's sweet was made — 

But to be lost when sweetest. 

Thomas 3Ioore. 

LWAYS try washing a small piece first. Col- 
ored cottons should first be washed in salt and 
water; \i/^ cupsful salt in four quarts hot water, 
letting the goods remain till cold. Dry in the 
shade. 

To Set Blacks, Reds, Pinks, Etc. Soak in a strong solu- 
tion of salt water. A little oxgall in the water will help 
keep weak colors bright. 

To Set Greens, Mauves, Purples, Etc. Wash thoroughly 
in one gallon of water in which an ounce of alum has been 
dissolved. 

To Set Blues, Browns, and Tans, Lavender and other deli- 
cate colors. Thoroughly dissolve one ounce sugar of lead 
in one gallon of water, soak several hours before washing. 

For Blacks, Grays, Buffs, Etc. Use a tablespoonful of 
black pepper to a gallon of water. 

To Freshen Colors. Soak in a weak borax solution before 
washing. 

To Brighten Blues, make a very strong bluing water of 
MRS. STEWART'S BLUING. Rinse and dry quickly. 

Pink, Green and Lavender Linens can be improved by 
using a little fruit coloring in the rinsing water. 

To brighten a pink cotton or linen dress in good condition, 
but badly faded, put a piece of turkey-red cheese-cloth in 
water and boil till the color is right, then add a tablespoon- 
ful of vinegar. The dress will dry a bit lighter than wher 



TO SET AND FRESHEN COLORS. 57 

wet and with an even color all over. One-eighth of a yard 
of cheese-cloth is enough for a dress. It is best to try a 
sample of material in the dye to get the right shade, before 
putting in the whole dress. 

Another way is to purchase packages of any standard dye, 
as many colors as you have different colored dresses. 
Dissolve each dye in about a quart of boiling water, and 
when cool bottle. When washing your colored dress, add 
a few drops, or sufhcient to make the desired color to the 
last rinsing water. 

Just as a few drops of MRS. STEWART'S BLUING ad- 
ded to the rinsing water will benefit the white part of the 
goods, so this will restore the faded dress to its original 
brightness. Hang to dry in a shady place. 

Yellows, Buffs and Tans are made brighter by adding a 
cupful of strong strained coffee to the rinsing water. 

To Freshen Rusty Muslins, Dark Blue Prints, etc., pass 
them through strong MRS. STEWART'S BLUING water 
afterwards using a little glue instead of starch. 

TO RESTORE COLORS. 

If removed by acid use a weak solution of baking soda 
and water. This is most effective with yellows. 

Vinegar is useful in reviving colors. Add one tablespoon- 
ful of vinegar to each quart of cold rinsing water. Thorough- 
ly saturate the article, wring tightly, and dry quickly. 

To Bleach Faded Cotton wash in boiling cream of tartar 
water. 

. To freshen wash dresses. — When wash dresses are mussed 
without being soiled, sponge with cold starch and press. 
The starch is made by dissolving a teaspoonful of starch in 
a cupful of cold water to which a pinch of borax has been 
added. 

To preserve colors in fine gingham, lawn, and linen dres- 
ses, wash them in flour starch, using no soap unless there 
should be some obstinate spots. Five tablespoonsful of flour 
makes a dishpanful of starch, by adding a little cold water 
to thin and cool it, which is sufficient for one dress. Rub on 
washboard and then rinse in a mixture of starch made 
same as first. This requires no other starching. Dry in the 
shade. Most delicate shades can be safely laundered in this 
way. 



CHAPTER IX. 
WASHING VARIOUS FABRICS. 



Cleanliness is next to Godliness. 

John Wesley. 

The good are better made by ill; 
As odors washed are sweeter still. 

Rogers. 




O clean Alpaca, sponge with strained coffee and 
iron on the wrong side, having black cambric 
under the goods. 

To wash Alpaca, put goods in boiler of cold 
rain water, and let boil three minutes. Have 
ready a pail of dark bluing water (made of MRS. STE- 
WART'S BLUING), place goods in this after wringing out 
of boiling water. Let remain in bluing ^ hour; wring and 
iron while damp. 

Babies Clothes should be washed by themselves, and if 
necessary use borax, but not soda or washing powder, as 
these irritate the skin. Be sure to rinse well, and do not 
starch stiffly. 

Bearskin Coats, and white Angora coats and mittens are 
easily cleaned by rubbing flour into the coat, and after a 
time, shaking it outdoors. Repeat process if necessary. 

Black and Dark Dresses. Sponge with ammonia and water 
or diluted alcohol then with dark MRS. STEWART'S BLU- 
ING water, the latter being to remove the shine. 



WASHING VARIOUS FABRICS. BO 



Blankets. See chapter II. 

To Wash Challies. Boil a pound of rice in five quarts of 
water and let it stand till lukewarm, then put in the goods 
and wash well, using the rice as soap. Pour off the water, 
leaving the sediment. Rub the goods well in the sediment, 
rinsing them in the water you have poured ofl. Use no 
rinsing water, but hang the goods to dry direct from the 
rice water. 

Chiffon. See Veiling. 

To Clean Chintz. Grate peeled raw potatoes to a fine pulp 
and add a pint of water to a pound of potatoes. Run this 
liquid through a coarse sieve and allow it to stand until the 
starch settles. Pour off the clear liquid and sponge goods 
with it, then rinse several times in clean cold water. 

Clothing. To wash clothing in gasoline, first get a pail 
or wash boiler with tight cover, and enough best quality 
gasoline both to soak and rinse the article. Soak the gar- 
ment in gasoline. If it is very much soiled, twenty-four 
hours is not too long. After soaking it in the boiler 
rub the garment vigorously, just as if using water. Rinse 
in clear gasoline, and hang in the sunshine and air to dry. 
Finally, press it to remove the creases and also whatever 
odor may remain. During the whole process up to the 
pressing keep your work out of doors. 

Cotton Goods. Shrink all cotton material before making- 
it into clothing. When shrinking colored goods put salt 
in the water to set the color. Lay the piece folded as it 
comes from the shop, in the tub, with enough cold water to 
cover it. Soak over night, then hang out on a straight bar 
dripping wet, unfolding only when it is put on the bar. 
After it has become dry the material may not need pressing. 

To Clean a Cotton-Crepe Waist. Soak for an hour in 
lukewarm soapsuds, using any good soap. Then wash care- 
fully. Shake well and pull lengthwise. Hang on a coat- 
hanger, protected by a clean towel. Dry in the sun. It is 



60 HOIME LAUNDRY HINTS. 

also a good plan to tack a piece of tape from the neck to 
the armhole. 

To make old crepe look like new, pass the crepe through 
the steam from teakettle. 

Crocheted and Knitted Articles. First sew them in a 
pillow-slip, and then wash them by squeezing the bag in 
soapy water, but do not rub or, wring it; then hang the bag 
in the air to dry. A shawl should be patted out straight 
and dried on a flat surface. 

Dish Cloths. Put a teaspoonful of ammonia into the water 
in which they are washed every day and rub soap on them. 
Let stand a half hour or so, then rub out thoroughly, rinse 
well and dry out doors in the sun. 

Doilies. Make a suds of soft water and Ivory soap, or a 
little borax. Wash doilies carefully, kneading and punch- 
ing them, rinse well, and roll in a towel to prevent colors 
staining other parts of the doily. 

Embroidery. Embroidery may be carefully washed in 
Ivory soap solution. If colors are likely to run do not 
wring, but iron immediately between dry cloths. See chapter 
on ironing. 

Ginghams. To wash delicate ginghams without fading add 
a tablespoonful of turpentine to a gallon of lukewarm water 
and soak the garment in this for an hour, afterward wash in 
warm water that has had soap thoroughly dissolved in it. 
Do not let lie, but rinse quickly through several waters and 
dry in the shade. 

Handkerchiefs. See page 15. 

To Wash Brown Holland Dresses. Boil two handfuls of 
bran in one quart of water; make a second batch like first 
for rinsing, and strain through muslin. Add one quart of 
cold water and wash the skirt in it. Rinse first in bran 
water, then in plain water. Wring and iron while damp, 
on the wrong side. 

Laces. Use castile soap and soft water. Make a strong 
suds and soak, squeeze and punch but do not rub or pull, 
rinse well and stiffen with rice starch or sugar. White lace 
is improved with a little MRS. STEWART'S BLUING. 
After this, place on a clean window pane, pulling out each 
point. 



WASHING VARIOUS FABRICS. 61 



Another method, take a large fruit jar and sew around it 
a piece of clean white flannel, making a flat seam. Sew one 
end of the lace perfectly straight to the seam and wind the 
lace around bottle, securing the points or scallops of lace at 
top and bottom. Make a strong suds of white soap, and cold 
water, and in it place the bottle of lace. Bring the water to 
a boil, »moving the bottle around occasionally in the water. 

Rinse thoroughly in tepid water, and if white, blue with 
MRS. STEWART'S BLUING; if cream colored, use a 
little coffee or chicory in the water. If desired use a little 
rice starch for stiffening. Dry the lace on the bottle in a 
current of air, and it will come off the same as though ironed. 

To stiffen black lace, dip in milk ,and iron between black 
cloths. To clean, steep in strong tea and rinse; adding 
some sugar to the last water. Iron through papers or 
black cloth. 

To wash Battenburg Lace without injury. Baste it to a 
piece of white cotton material, right side next to cotton, 
wash and iron it and then remove the piece from the cotton. 

Cleaning Lace by Dry Cleaning Process. Rub it in dry 

flour, then take it out doors and thoroughly shake out all 
the flour; if not perfectly clean, repeat the rubbing in more 
clean flour. White knitted hoods, and babies' socks can be 
cleaned in this way. 

Lace Yokes. To clean a lace yoke or collar, sprinkle 
powdered boric acid on it and lay away for a day or two and 
then shake well. This saves labor and is better than the old 
way of taking out and replacing the yoke each time for 
cleansing. 

Another way to clean a lace yoke without detaching. Make 
a pad of a thick bath towel, and place it under the yoke. 
Then dip a soft cloth into warm water and soapsuds; dab 
it over the lace until clean. 

Lace Curtains. Alake a note of the size of the curtains 
before wetting them so as not to stretch them too much 
later, and shake to remove as much dirt as possible. Put 
to soak over night in suds of castile soap and tepid water. 
Do not rub them, but knead and squeeze, and when water 
is soiled use another tub of suds. Put in boiler and boil a 
few minutes, then rinse twice and if white, blue with MRS. 



62 HOME LAUNDRY HINTS. 

STEWART'S BLUING, or if colored use coffee, tea or 
saffron instead of bluing.' Wring in wringer (never in the 
hands) as dry as possible and dip in starch. If you have 
no curtain stretcher, place a clean sheet on the floor or on 
the lawn and pin the curtains carefully to it with pins or 
toothpicks, making sure that the size is the same as before. 
If curtains should get too dry before they are on, take 
sprinkling can and wet them. Several curtains may be 
pinned at the same time, one above the other, or you can 
pin them on a quilt on the clothesline. Gasoline is also 
good for washing curtains. Use plenty of gasoline and 
work out doors. 

In taking lace curtains off the stretchers don't pull, but 
lift from each nail carefully, and when pressing the edges, 
dampen first, and they will not ruffle but hang straight 
and smooth. By keeping the curtains folded through the 
entire operation of washing, the net is not torn. 

Always mend the small holes in your lace curtains before 
they are washed. The large holes that need a patch should 
be mended after they are stretched. Trim the edges of the 
hole to be patched and take a niece of old lace curtain or a 
piece off the top of the one you are patching, cold starch 
your patch and press it over the hole with a hot iron. The 
starch will make it stick and it will be much neater and 
easier than if you had mended it with thread. 

To slip a brass rod in a freshly-starched curtain, slip a 
thimble, or finger of an old kid glove, over the end of the 
rod, and it will then go in without tearing the curtain. 

Lace Curtains — Dry Cleaning Process. Thoroughly shake 
out all the dust and then place one at a time loosely in a 
large, strong, paper bag, and sprinkle in a pint of cornmeal. 
The bag must be securely tied and shaken hard for about 
ten minutes. After this shake the curtain out doors and 
air. Fresh meal should be used for each curtain. 

Lawn. To wash lawn, boil six quarts of water with two 
quarts of bran, for thirty minutes, and strain. Put this in 
the water used to wash the goods. There is no need of 
starch or soap. Use clear water for rinsing slightly. 

Organdie, to Dry Clean. Lay each breadth in turn smooth- 
ly upon a table covered with a clean white cloth and rub 
both sides with a mixture of starch and borax, or with 



WASHING VARIOUS FABRICS. 63 



talcum powder, using a tooth or nail brush; rub into every 
thread and leave the powder for 24 hours; then shake well 
in the open air. Cover with a damp cloth and press. Treat 
light wool stuffs in the same way, using block magnesia in- 
stead of the starch. 

Orgaijdie, to Wash. Soak in water for a few hours; then 
soap all over with white soap, put into a clean pillow-slip 
and boil for twenty minutes; then hang each garment by 
the belt on a low line and draw gently through the hands 
from top to bottom, but do not squeeze or wring. Use very 
weak starch water and hang out to dry, shaking frequently 
to prevent the folds from sticking together. 

Quilts and Comforters. To wash a down quilt, put the 
quilt with some good soap or soap powder to soak in a tub 
of hot water over night. If much soiled, soak in several 
soapy waters. Rinse thoroughly after this in clean water. 
Hang it in the sunshine for several days and turn occasion- 
ally. Be sure to put in a dry place at night. When dry, it 
w^ill be fluffy, with the down evenly distributed, 
fluffy, with the down evenly distributed. 

To keep comforters clean, a case may be made of dainty 
Swiss or washable material to slip over the end used at the 
head of the bed. Finish edge with a ruffle and baste to 
comforter. It can be removed easily and washed. The 
hard work of washing comforters will be lightened if the 
cotton first be covered with common mosquito-netting and 
lightly tacked before covering with sateen. When the sateen 
becomes soiled, cut the tacking and remove sateen and wash. 
Hang the cotton covered with the netting on a line in the 
sun-shine to air, then return to covering and tack as before. 

Ribbons. To clean, dissolve white soap in boiling water; 
when cool enough to bear the hand, pass the ribbons through 
it, rubbing gently so as not to injure the texture. Rinse 
through lukewarm water and, to dry, wind about a large 
glass bottle filled with hot water. If colors are reds or yel- 
lows, add a few drops of oil of vitriol to the rinsing water. 
If color is bright scarlet, add to the rinsing water a few 
drops of muriate of tin. In washing white ribbons or white 
silk, slightly blue the final rinsing water with MRS. STEW- 
ART'S BLUING. If ribbons are too delicate to wash with 
water, use gasoline or naptha. For black ribbons, sponge 
ribbon with a strained mixture of boiling water and a table- 



64 HOME LAUNDRY HINTS. 

spoonful of soapbark. Do not iron ribbon, but wind about 
a bottle to dry. Old faded ribbons of any color can be dyed 
black very easily. 

White silk ribbon, if left in lingerie, will become yellow 
after being washed a few times, but a pale blue ribbon will 
become white, and never grow yellow, even after repeated 
launderings. 

To keep hair-ribbons that are cut straight across, from 
fraying at the ends; cut close inside the selvage on either 
side, for perhaps an eight of an inch up from the end of the 
ribbon. This will entirely stop the fraying. 

To keep ribbons fresh, put a small quantity of sugar in 
about a cupful of water and squeeze ribbons out of this 
water. When pressed they are as stiff as when new. 

Sateen. To make it glossy after washing put a little borax 
in the last rinsing water. Iron before entirely dry. 

Serge. To clean white serge use a decoction of soapwort 
roots. The gown when washed, will be white and soft to the 
touch. Soap hardens such goods and makes them yellow. 

Silk. Black silk can be cleaned by means of hot vinegar or 
black coffee. The coffee removes every particle of grease. 
It restores the brilliancy without giving it a shiny appearance 
or the papery stiffness produced by any other liquid cleanser. 
When thoroughly cleaned it should be pressed on the wrong 
side. Be sure to use cloth between the iron and silk. 

To Wash a Silk Dress. Rip apart and shake free from dust. 
Prepare two tubs of warm water; make suds of gall soap in 
one tub and use the other to rinse in. Wash one piece at 
a time; wring gently, rinse, wring again, shake and iron with 
hot iron on what will be the wrong side. It is better to 
change to new water to rinse in when al^out half done, 
making suds in the old rinsing water. 

In washing colored silks, first soak in salt water to set 
the colors, then wash with a mild soap and tepid water. Silks 
should never be boiled or rubbed hard. Do not let it lie 
wet, as this will make colors run. Iron on wrong side with 
moderately hot iron. Silk crepe not recjuiring ironing may 
be laid on a smooth clean table to dry. White silk will 
become yellow unless a little MRS. STEW.VRT'S BLUING 
is used in the water. 



WASHING VARIOUS FABRICS. 65 

To renew china silk, dust carefully and wash in a thick 
suds of some good soap. Rinse, and iron while quite damp. 

To wash summer silks, remove grease or other spots with 
chloroform. Then make a solution of a teaspoonful of am- 
monia arrd a little soap in a pail of water. In this dip the 
silk until it looks clean. Do not wring it, but press between 
the hands. Rinse in water from which the chill has been 
taken. Hang in a shady place until partly dry and then lay 
between two cloths, and press dry with hot iron. 

To keep silk white after washing it, use lukewarm wat|fr 
and a pure white soap. Rinse it thoroughly. Then ^vrap 
it in a large cloth and let it lie for half an hour, and it is 
ready to iron. Do not expose it to the air as the air turns 
it yellow. Colored silk washed in this way will not fade. 

Another method is, after washing carefully in the usual 
way, to add one tablespoonful of wood alcohol to the rins- 
ing water. 

A piece of velveteen is better than a sponge for silk goods 
and used dry it serves the purpose of a brush. 

To wash pongee, use a suds made from lukewarm water 
and pure white soap; then gently rub the goods with the 
hands. Rinse in several waters and hang out in the air until 
perfectly dry, then iron. Do not sprinkle or dampen the 
goods, as any moisture, even that of a damp cloth placed 
over the goods while ironing, will be certain to cause shad- 
ows. In this way pongee can be made to look like new, and 
not show that it has been washed. 

Silk Ribbed Underwear. Wash in warm Ivory soap and 
water, to which a tablespoonful of household ammonia is 
added for each gallon. Soak ten minutes, then quickly wash, 
rinse and dry. Starch it as it drys, and do not iron. 

To Remove Shine From Silk Dresses, Etc. Sponge with 
a little ammonia in a few spoonsful of alcohol. A black silk 
when so sponged becomes almost like new. If color has 
been taken out by fruit stains, ammonia will usually restore 
it. Almost any dark cloth that has worn shiny can be re- 
stored by sponging with strong bluing water made with 
MRS. STEWART'S BLUING. 

Skirts. In washing a kilted skirt, baste the plaits down 
from the point where the machine stitching ends, all the 
way to the bottom of the skirt, leaving the fold entirely free. 



66 HOaiE LAUNDRY HINTS. 

The skirt may now be washed and ironed as easily as a plain 
gored skirt and the plaits will retain their perfect shape. 

Stockings. New stockings wear longer if washed before 
wearing. Sew pairs together before washing, then they are 
matched when returned. Black and fancy colored hosiery 
should be washed and soaked in warm suds, and rinsed in 
clear water, to which has been added enough MRS. STEW- 
ART'S BLUING to give shade. If discolored by improper 
washing have the rinse water made almost black with MRS. 
STEWART'S BLUING. If too bad for this method, color 
them with dye. To prolong the life of stockings, rinse out 
your stockings in water as soon as you take them off. They 
will last twice as long. This is particularly true of silk 
stockings. 

Wash white silk gloves and hose in warm soap-suds, with a 
little borax added, letting them soak for a while, then rinse, 
blue, and hang in a dark room. The best time to wash them 
is at night; they will be dry by morning. Then pull the 
stocking lengthwise and press with a warm iron, which will 
restore the original gloss. Never use hot iron. It is the 
light which turns them yellow 

Some women say bran water is the best thing to use for 
washing silk stockings, as soap is apt to make silk tender. 

Summer Dresses. A sheer summer dress that is limp 
from wear, but not otherwise soiled, m.ay be sponged on the 
wrong side with milk and water (half and half solution) and 
after it has been ironed will have a crisp new look. 

Towels and Hosiery. Spots on towels and hosiery will 
disappear if a little ammonia is put into the water and 
soaked an hour o-r two before washing. 

Red table linen or red percale and calico dresses, if washed 
carefully with powdered borax will not fade. Use tepid 
water, with a small amount of powdered borax, and wash 
each article separately and quickly, using very little soap; 
then rinse well in tepid water containing a little boiled 
starch. Hang in the shade and iron when almost dry. Red 
calico dresses washed in this way will have a beautiful gloss 
and will look like new. 

Veils. Keep veils in shape on a padded pasteboard roll. 
the veils rolled on neatly and pinned without folding. This 
makes them last much longer. 



WASHING VARIOUS FABRICS. 67 

Veiling and Chiffon may be Cleaned by a bath made of 
equal parts of alcohol and rain water, or gasoline and soap- 
suds, made with white soap. Dip the fabric in and out of 
the liquid until clean, or put both in a glass jar, seal, and 
shake until clean, then rinse in a second solution of the same; 
lay between cloth for a few minutes, then stretch to dry, by 
carefully pinning on a towel laid on the bed spread. 

If not too badly soiled, brush with a mixture of two parts 
powdered starch to one part borax. Spread chiffon on a 
clean surface and rub with soft cloth or brush several times 
using clean powder each time. 

When a veil has lost its stiffness, roll it smoothly on a 
pasteboard mailing tube and hold it over the steam of a 
teakettle for a few minutes, after which dry thoroughly. 

A new veil may be kept from stretching if you thread the 
sewing-machine with silk of the same color as the veil itself 
and stitch carefully along each edge of the veil. The stitch- 
ing will not show, and the veil may be satisfactorily adjusted 
forever after. 

Velvet. When velvet gets crushed, hold the part over a 
basin of hot water, the "pile" of the velvet rises like new. 
Gasoline, or ammonia and water are good to clean velvet. 

To Wash Velveteen. Make a lather of pure white soap 
and hot water, in it souse the velveteen up and down a num- 
ber of times, then put it in two more hot lathers, and finally 
rinse thoroughly in clear, warm water. Do not wring, but 
hang it on the line until it is half dry, then iron on the wrong 
side. The steam will raise the pile and make it look like new 
material. A teaspoonful of salt to a quart of water should be 
used in the washing and rinsing waters. 

Voile. Soak in lukewarm salt and water to set the color. 
Then wash carefully in warm soft water with white soap, 
wring carefully and rinse. Make a thin starch and if the 
goods are dark put in plenty of MRS. STEWART'S BLU- 
ING, as it helps to hide the starch. Iron before it is quite 
dry. 

To wash worsted goods, use a white soap^ and wash them 
separately from the other laundry pieces. Do not wring. 
Shake well and hang by the edge to dry. Iron while damp, 



CHAPTER X. 
NEW IDEAS FOR CLEANING THINGS. 



Happy in this, she is not yet so old 
But she may learn ; happier than this, 
She is not bred so dull but she can learn. 

Merchant of Venice, act II., scene II. 

Let thy mind's sweetness have its operation 
upon thy body, clothes, and habitation. 

George Herbert. 




RTIFICIAL flowers can be cleaned by covering- 
them with flour or starch and shaking them out 
after several days; they may be "revived," so 
that they may be used on another season's hat, 
if they are held over a steaming teakettle, and 
each petal is then carefully pressed while still damp with a 
fairly hot iron. To restore the original colors dissolve 
enough tube oil paint in gasoline to give shade desired and 
in this dip the flowers. Shake and let gasoline evaporate. 

Carpets. First sweep thoroughly, then wipe the carpet 
with a clean mop or cloth dipped in ammonia water. For 
a carpet cleaner the following is recommended. Take three 
gallons soft water, one bar white soap, a teaspoonful each of 
borax and pulverized soapbark and one-half teaspoonful car- 
bonate of potassium. Use it boiling hot, scrubbing with a 
small brush and wiping dry with cloth wrung out of clear 
water. Dry buckwheat spread on carpets and allowed to 
stand for a day will remove spo^s, For soot on carpets do 



KEW IDEAS FOK CLEANING THINGS. 69 



not sweep them, but spread salt or cornmeal on it. An alum 
solution restores colors. For kerosene on carpets, cover the 
spots with flour and let stand until the flour has absorbed 
the kerosene, when it should be swept up carefully. 

Chamois. Wash in tepid water, to which has been added 

a little ammonia, and rub well. Pull into shape as it dries, 

and rub between the hands occasionally to keep soft. Do 
not wring it. 

To Whiten Celluloid Collars and Cuffs. Use cream of 
tartar with a little water. 

Corsets. To clean them, take out the steels at front and 
sides, then scrub thoroughly with tepid or cold lather of 
white castile soap, using a very small scrubbing brush. Do 
not lay them in water. When quite clean let cold water run 
on them freely from the spigot to rinse out the soap thor- 
oughly. Dry in a cool place without ironing, after pulling 
lengthwise till they are straight and shapely. 

To Clean Feathers. White, and light colored plumes that 
are not badly soiled can be cleaned l)y rubbing them in a 
pan of equal parts of salt and flour. 

Or cover with a pint of gasoline and equal parts of borax 
and corn starch, enough to make a wet paste, rubbing them 
only one way. When quite dry, shake off all the powder and 
curl with a knife. Grebe feathers may be washed with white 
soap in soft water. 

Ostrich feathers will wash perfectly if care is taken. Make 
a suds of white soap, warm water and a little borax. Soak 
the feathers in the solution for a few minutes, then draw the 
fronds upwards with the hand until all dirt is removed. The 
feather will not look particularly clean until it is dry. After 
lifting from the suds rinse in clear water and hang in sun 
and air to dry thoroughly, then curl with some blunt in- 
strument, as the back of a knife. 



70 HOME LAUNDRY HINTS. 

You can easily curl an ostrich plume by placing it in a 
warm oven for a few minutes, or shake over hot stove, on 
which a little table salt has been sprinkled. 

To Color Feathers and Milkweed Balls there is nothing 
better than MRS. STEWART'S BLUING. 

To Dye Feathers, chiffon, flowers, etc., mix enough oil 
paint with gasoline to give the shade desired. Sometimes it 
is necessary to dip several times. 

Fur. To clean white fur, take heated bran or oatmeal but 
do not brown it, dip a clean flannel into the heated meal 
or bran and rub the fur with it. Let stand a couple of 
hours, then shake and air. 

To Clean Kid Gloves. Put gloves on the hands and then 
wash in a basin of benzine rubbing the hands gently together. 
Do not rub too hard. Afterwards hang the gloves in the air 
to dry. Or dip a woolen rag in benzine and allow it to 
become almost dry. When it is simply damp it is just right. 
Rub this over the gloves, then take bread crumbs and rub 
lightly, repeating the operation as required. 

Or put the gloves to soak in benzine in a fruit jar. vSee 
that the cap is screwed tight and let stand for a day after 
which hang in the air to dry. Benzine being inflammable and 
explosive, must be used with the greatest care, and never in 
the same room where a lamp or fire is burning. Gasoline 
can be used instead of benzine if desired. 

Some gloves can be washed in ammonia, or in soap suds 
and warm water, when on the hands. Often they can be 
cleaned by rubbing with slightly damp bread crumbs or 
with art gum. Chamois gloves should be washed in cold, 
soapy water, using a pure white soap. Rinse in a soapy 
water also, to prevent them from becoming hard. Hang 
them up by the upper edge until dry, but do not dry near 
heat. Gloves of a delicate tint can be cleaned on the hands 
with a piece of white flannel moistened with milk and rubbed 



NEW IDEAS FOR CLEANING THINGS. 71 

on a piece of white soap. Go over the gloves gently and 
rub dry with a flannel cloth. 

To clean white silk gloves make a good suds of white soap 
and lukevv^arm water and wash the gloves. Do not rub the 
soap itself on the gloves. Rinse them in several waters, 
adding a drop or two of MRS. STEWART'S BLUING. 
Place them in a turkish towel and wring out all the water; 
then hang over a rack to dry. Washed in this way, white 
silk gloves will not turn yellow. To protect gloves from 
perspiration put a little absorbent cotton between the palm 
of the hand and the glove. Black gloves that wear white at 
the finger tips may be touched with sweet oil and black ink. 
When dry rub well with flannel. 

Light suede gloves may be satisfactorily cleaned with oat- 
meal. Put the gloves on the hands and then rub the hands 
through the meal, as if washing them with water. If any 
part is especially soiled, scour it with a piece of white flannel 
dipped in the meal. 

When the nap on suede shoes or gloves gets packed down 
or soiled, rub the articles lightly with sandpaper. This will 
restore its good appearance. 

To Wash Gray or White Hair and Prevent Its Becoming 
Yellow. Shampoo with a pure soap and afterwards rinse in 
water blued with MRS. STEW^ART'S BLUING. 

To wash a gray hair switch, use pure soap and after rinsing- 
dip repeatedly in a dish of water blued with MRS. STEW- 
ART'S BLUING. . 

Leather Belts can be softened with kerosene. 

Parasols. Open them and scrub with soap suds made of 
white soap and lukewarm water. When clean rinse by 
pouring several buckets of water, or better turn on the hose. 
Last of all add a little MRS. STEWART'S BLUING water, 
pouring from a watering pot, and then let the parasol dry 
and bleach out of doors. 

Pillows. On a bright windy day plunge the pillows filled 
with feathers in a tub of hot suds. After putting them 
through several waters, shake and hang them on the line 
out doors, but not in the direct sunlight. They should be 
thus aired for a. week, shaking occasionally. 



72 H03tE LAUNDRY HINTS, 

To steam clean feather pillows, place a couple of pieces 
of board across four tin cans and set in the bottom of the 
boiler; put three inches of water in the boiler, place the pil- 
lows on the board, cover the boiler and let the pillows steam 
for an hour. Hang them out in the wind and shade until 
they are nearly dry, and finish drying in the sun. They come 
out light and downy, clean and fresh-smelling. It would 
be even better to dump the feathers into cheese-cloth bags, 
then the ticks could be washed separately. 

Plush. Sponge with chloroform. 

Rain Coats. Put the whole garment in cold water, and 
then, dipping a scrubbing brush in suds made with ordinary 
yellow soap, scour the whole of it from top to bottom, the 
coat meanwhile being laid flat on the table. It must be given 
several rinsings, but must neither be wrung nor placed near 
the fire to dry. Mud stains on rain coats disappear when 
rubbed with a clean slice of a raw potato. 

Rugs. See also Carpets. One way to clean them is to 
hang on the line and wash thoroughly with the garden hose. 
Lay rug on the grass to dry. 

Oriental Rugs. Once a month should be taken out and 
laid on the grass and whipped gently — never hung on a line 
and beaten. Then turn them over and sweep with a stiff 
broom dipped in ammonia and water. This brightens the 
colors. Finish by washing them all over with olive-oil soap 
and warm water, using a flannel rag, which seems to give 
new life to the wool. If the rug has fringe on it, occasion- 
ally make a warm suds and dip the fringe up and down in 
the shallow water, being careful not to knot it. 

To Wash Rag Rugs. Make a suds of pure soap and tepid 
water and scrub the rug with the warp, with a pliable brush. 
Rinse thoroughly, blue with MRS. STEWART'S BLUING 
and starch, then spread over a cloth in the shade to dry. 

To Prevent a Rug from Curling. Sew a piece of chair 
webbing close to the edge of each end on the underside of 
the rug. 

To Clean a Sponge. Rub a fresh lemon well into a soured 
sponge and rinse thoroughly in lukewarm water. This will 
make it as sweet as when new. 



NEW IDEAS FOR CLEANING THINGS. 73 



Straw Hats. Wash with a white soap and bleach with 
oxalic acid or peroxide of hydrogen. Dry in sun. A paste 
of sulphur and water will clean them if allowed to stand 
some time. Stiffen with a mixture of gutta percha and ether. 
A blue 'Straw hat that has begun to fade may be freshened 
by painting it with MRS. STEWART'S BLUING. 

Summer Clothes. When you put away your white sum- 
mer clothes take a large sheet and make very blue with 
MRS. STEWART'S BLUING, dipping, rinsing and drying 
several times. If hung over the summer clothes in the attic 
it will keep thetn from yellowing. Blue cambric is also 
good, and fine centerpieces can be wrapped in blue tissue 
paper. 

Ties. Silk ties can be freshened and cleaned by immersing 
in a fruit jar filled with gasoline. Screw cap on jar and let 
them soak a day, afterward dry thoroughly. Use a brush 
dipped in gasoline, to scrub the very soiled parts. Satin, 
of course, does not permit of this treatment. 

Wash ties should have a basting thread run lengthwise 
through the middle of the tie which will keep the lining 
from wrinkling when washed. 

Tinsel and Gold Lace. Clean with ammonia water. 

Trimming. For light trimming on dark dresses cover with 
cornmeal saturated in gasoline. Brush off when dry. 

To Crease Men's Trousers. Before pressing, turn and 
moisten the crease on the wrong side with a brush dipped 
in starch or library paste. Press dry, and the crease will 
remain much longer. 

To Clean White Vests. Use block magnesia, rubbing well. 
Put vest in drawer for several days, then beat and brush. 

Walls. To clean hard finished walls use a cupful of am- 
monia to a bucket of water and apply with soft piece of mus- 
lin. Kerosene with hot water may be used if desired. 

Cleaning Wall Paper. One quart of flour; one tablespoon- 
ful of pulverized alum. Mix together and stir in cold water 
with a little MRS. STEWART'S BLUING, until a little 
thicker than pancake dough. Cook until it becomes so thick 
you can't stir it any more, then mix in cracker crumbs until 
the dough doesn't stick to your fingers. Rub the paper 
lightly with this dough and it will make it look like new. 



74 HOME LrAUNDBY HINTS. 

Begin at the top of the room and alwajs rub downward and 
not horizontally. Do not rub too hard. 

Faded cartridge wall paper can be painted with water 
color paint mixed with paris white and sizing. Apply with 
kalsomine brush. 

To freshen wall paper, give it a very thin coat of kalso- 
mine. This makes the colors delicate and leaves and flowers 
mist}' and indistinct. 

To remove wall paper, brush over with warm water or 
else a thin flour paste. In half an hour the paper will easily 
peel ofif. 

To remove grease spots from wall paper, take a piece of 
blotting paper and drop a few drops of benzine on it; have 
ready a warm, flat iron. Place the blotting paper on' grease 
spot and place iron on blotting paper, holding it there several 
minutes, and when the benzine has evaporated the grease 
spot will go also. If the grease spot is of long standing a 
second application may be necessary. 

Clean Cotton Waste such as is used by engineers is fine for 
dusting and cleaning and when soiled can be burned or 
thrown away. 

To Make Whitewash. Put some freshly burned quicklime 
in a pail with sufficient water to cover it. Then add one 
pint boiled oil to each gallon of the mixture, and a little 
MRS. STEWART'S BLUING to make it a pure white. 
Thin with water till the proper consistency, and apply with 
a brush. Do not let the brush remain in the pail as in time 
it destroys the bristles. This whitewash will not rub of? 
easily and is also a great purifier. 

Windows. Wash in lukewarm water and dry by rubbing 
with a clean chamois skin wrung out of cold water. A little 
kerosene or ammonia in the water will give a brilliant polish 
and in winter this is especially necessary. Starch rubbed 
over windows or mirrors gives them a fine finish. Use 
tissue paper or old news papers with which to polish. 

To remove paint from window panes, rub briskly for a 
few minutes with baking-soda, or hot vinegar, then wash in 
clear water. This will remove paint if it has been on the 
window fbr years. Paint, when wet, can be removed from 
glass with turpentine; when dry, by rubbing with a penny. 



CHAPTER XI. 
HELPFUL HINTS. 



For nothintr lovolier can be found 

In "Wdman tlian to study household good. 

Milton. 

So great is the effect of cleanliness upon 
man, that it extends even to his moral charac- 
ter. Virtue never dwelt with dirt, nor was 
there ever a person scrupulously attentive to 
cleanliness who was a consummate villian. 

Rumford. 




O preserve freshness of silk skirts sew loops 
under the flounces and hang them in your closet 
upside down. This freshens them and makes 
the ruffles stand out when worn. 

When Packing a Plaited Skirt in a Trunk 
the skirt will need no pressing if the plaits are first basted 
down flat. 

Lingerie Waists. Sew on the under side of inserted lace 
common wash net cut the shape of the insert. Even badly 
torn places may be mended by darning down invisibly upon 
the net, and many very open patterns are reall}' improved. 
Before Working in the Garden, or doing other rough 
work, rub your finger nails over a piece of soap. This will 
prevent the earth from getting in under the nails, and when 
you wash your hands the soap comes out easily. 

When Sending Suits to the Tailors for cleaning and press- 
ing, mark all grease spots with chalk. A great many of the 
small spots would not be seen by the tailor otherwise. 



76 H03IE LAUNDRY HINTS. 

When Marking Linen with a pencil or indelible ink, put 
the material in an embroidery hoop to hold it firmly and 
then set a glass paper weight or other smooth surface direct- 
ly under the place you wish to mark. 

When Embroidering Initials on a hemstitched towel, leave 
space enough below the letters to make a new hem, for the 
first one will be sure to tear ofif long before the rest of the 
towel shows signs of wear. If the letters are close to the 
hem it is impossible to repair the injury so that the towel will 
look well again. 

Mark Sheets of Different Sizes on the left hand corner 
with indelible ink or marking cotton, so you can tell at a 
glance which sheet to take. 

When Drawing Threads from Linen rub soap on the cloth 
and the work will be accomplished much more easily. 

To Keep the Tablecloth Clean start a "spot bank." When 
any member of the family gets a spot on the tablecloth he 
or she puts a cent in the bank. At the end of the week the 
money is given to the one having a record of the fewest 
spots. As children want to win the pennies this plan will 
make them careful, and the effect will be lasting. 

To Shrink Woolen Cloth. Dampen a sheet thoroughly 
and spread out smooth. Place the cloth on it and fold over 
and over. Leave it folded from one to three hours. Then 
hang it across a straight bar, not a clothes line. 

To Make Bubbles That Can Be Blown Big and Will Last, 
take a piece of laundry soap about an inch square and cut 
it up in a cupful of warm water, in which dissolve half a tea- 
spoonful of gum arable and then add a teaspoonful of glycer- 
ine and a cupful of cold water. Stir well and blow bubbles 
from a small pipe. Strawberry juice for coloring will make 
pink bubbles and orange juice will make yellow ones. 

Wrinkles. To remove them from coat or skirt, hang in 
bathroom over the tub, close the door and turn on the hot 
water. Let it remain there two or three hours, then hang 
out in the fresh air. 



HELPFUL HINTS, 77 



To Render Corks Tight Fitting. Take a cork that is a 
little too large for the bottle. Boil the cork in water for 
twenty minutes; then press it into the bottle. 

After opening a bottle of glue or cement, rub mutton tallow 
on a sound cork before inserting it in the bottle, which will 
prevent the cork from sticking to the neck of the bottle and 
breaking when an attempt is made to remove it. 

To remove glass stoppers, put one drop of sweet or olive 
oil on the opening. 

To Drive out Flies. Flies dislike the smell of oil of laven- 
der, and a few drops on a bit of cloth- placed in a saucer of 
boiling water will drive them away. Hang a rag with a few 
drops on it, near the top of the screen door. 

Kitchen Aprons may be marked with a cross-stitch of red 
on the inside band when there is no very decided right or 
wrong side. This mark may be seen at a glance and will 
save one's time and patience when slipping on an apron in 
a hurry. 

Incombustible Dresses. By putting an ounce of alum or 
sal ammoniac in the last water in which muslins or cottons 
are rinsed, or a similar quantity in the starch in which they 
are stiffened, they will be rendered almost incombustible, or 
at least will with difficulty take fire; and if they do, will 
burn without flame. It is astonishing that this simple pre- 
caution is so rarely adopted. 

A Neat Patch for Shirts. Sometimes a shirt that is good 
everywhere else will have a small hole on each side of the 
front, below the neckband where the points of the collar 
come. To mend these places, cut a piece from the lower 
part of the shirt and dip it into the cold starch you are using 
for the cuffs, lay it over the holes, matching the figures care- 
fully, and pass the iron over it. The patches must be re- 
newed every time the shirt is washed, of course, but put on 
in this manner they are much less noticeable than when 
sewed on. 




INDEX 




Acid Spots 49 

Alkali Spots 49 

Alpaca' 58 

Ammonia 13, 46 

Apron for Washing 12 

Aprons — To Mark 77 

Artificial Flowers 68 

Axle Grease 49 

Babies Clothes 58 

Bearskin Coats 58 

Bed Clothes 14 

Belts — Leather 71 

Benzine 47 

Black Dresses 58 

Blankets 13 

Bleach — Cotton 57 

Blood Stains 49 

Bluing 19-25 

Boiler 17 

Boiling 10, 11 

Borax Water 29 

Brass Stains 49 

Brown Holland Dresses. 60 

Bubbles 76 

Carpets 68 

Celluloid Collars 69 

Centerpieces • 42 

Challies 59 

Chalk 45, 48 

Chamois 69 

Chiffon 59 



Chintz 59 

Cleaning Fluids 46 

Clothes Driers -31 

Clothes Basket 31 

Clothesline 30, 32 

Clothespins '. .32, 33 

Clothing 59 

Cocoa Stains 49 

Cod Liver Oil 49 

Coffee Stains 50 

Collars— Celluloid 69 

Comforters 63 

Corks 77 

Corsets 69 

Cotton Goods 59 

Cream Stains 53 

Crepe 59. 60 

Crocheted Articles 60 

Curtains — Lace 61, 62 

Dish Cloths 60 

Doilies 41, 60 

Domestic Finish 40 

Dresses 40 

Dry Cleaning 48-49 

Egg Stains 50 

Embroidery 42, 60 

Embroidery Patterns ... 24 
Fading Colors — To 

Revive 44 

Feathers 69, 70 



INDEX 



79 



Finger Nails — To 

Protect 75 

Flannels 12, 13, 14 

Flies — To Drive On.*^ . . . Tl 

Flowers — Artificial 68 

Fringed Articles 42 

Fruit Stains 50 

Fur 70 

Gstsoline 16, 47 

Ginghams 60 

Gloves— Kid 70, 71 

Gloves — Silk 71 

Glue — To Remove 50 

Grass Stains 50 

Grease — To Remove .... 51 

Gum 51 

Gum Water 29 

Hair— To Wash 71 

Handkerchiefs 15, 42 

Hands — To Keep Soft . . 12 

Hanging Clothes 30-33 

Hats— Straw 73 

Ice Cream 51 

Incombustible Dresses . . 77 
Initials — Embroidering . 76 

Ink 24 

Ink Stains 52 

Iodine 53 

Iron Rust 53 

Ironing 34-44 

Irons — Care of 35 

Jabots 44 

Javelle Water 47 

Kerosene 53 

Laces 60-61 

Lamp Black 53 

Laundry Bags 31,33 

Lawn 62 

Linen — Marking 76 

Linen— To Wash 16 

Lingerie— To Wash ..11, 15 



Lingerie Waists ........ 75 

Lye 5 

Marking Linen, etc 76 

Medicine Stains 53 

Mildew 53 

Milk 53 

Mucus , 53 

Mud Stains 54 

Oil Stains 51, 54 

Oil for Washer, etc 18 

Organdie 62, 63 

Overalls 11 

Paint — To Remove 54 

Hampers — Clothes 33 

Paraffine — To Wash 

With 16 

Parasols 71 

Peach Stains 54 

Perspiration Stains 54 

Pillows 71-72 

Plush 72 

Polishing Collars 28,40 

Pongee 65 

Prints— To Wash 14 

Quilts 63 

Rain Coats 72 

Red Table Linen 66 

Restoring Colors 57 

Ribbons 63, 64 

Ribbon Bows 44 

Rinsing 11 

Roll for Centerpieces .. 42 

Rugs 72 

Rust 54 

Sateen 64 

Scorch — To Remove .... 54 

Serge 64 

Setting of Colors 56-57 

Shampooing 24 

Sheets — To Iron 41 



80 



INDEX 



Sheets— To Mark 76 

Shine — To Remove ..24, 65 

Shirts— To Patch 77 

Shoe Polish — To Remove 55 
Shrinking Cotton Goods 59 
Shrinking Woolen Goods 76 

Silk— To Wash 64-65 

Silk— To Iron 42 

Silk Rihbed Underwear . 65 

Skirts 65, 66, 75 

Skirts— To Iron ..40, 43, 44 

Soaking" Clothes 9 

Soap — Laundry 6, 7 

Soap— Melted 10 

Soap — Soft 7 

Soap for W^oolens 14 

Soap-bark 47 

Sorting Clothes 8 

Sponge — To Clean 72 

Spots— To Mark 75 

Spots — To Remove ...45-55 

Sprinkling Clothes 34 

Stains — To Remove ..45-55 

Starching 26-29 

Stockings 15, 66 

Straw Hats 73 

Sulphur Fumes 48 

Summer Clothes 66, 73 

Table Linen — To Wash 16 
Table Cloths— To Iron 40-41 
Table Cloths — To Keep 

Clean 76 

Tallow — To Remove ... 55 

Tar — To Remove 55 

Tea Stains 55 

Ties 44, 73 

Tinsel 73 

Trimming 73 

Trousers — To Crease ... 73 
Towels and Hosiery .... 66 

Tubs 11, 17 

Tucks — To Iron 43 



Tuesday, Washday 8^ 

Turpentine 17 

Urine Stains 55 

Varnish 55 

X'aseline 55 

\'eils 66, 67 

X'elvet 67 

Velveteen 67 

Vests, White 73 

Voile 67 

Waists 59, 75 

Waists — To Iron 43 

Walls : . . . . 73 

W^all Paper 73-74 

Wash Dresses 57 

Washdav — To plan 16 

Washing 8-18 

Washing, Easy 10 

Washing Fluid 17 

Washing with Gasoline. 

Etc. 16 

Washing with Turpen- 
tine 17 

Washing without Fire . . 17 

Washing Machines 18 

Waste, Cotton 74 

Water 4- 7 

Wax — To Remove 55 

White Animals — To 

Wash 25 

Wl-iite Clothes— To Wash 15 
Whitening Clothes 11, 25, 55 
Whitewash — To Make . . 74 

Whitewash Spots 55 

Windows 74 

Wine Stains 55 

Worsted Goods 67 

Wringing 12 

Wrinkles — To Remove . . 76 

Yellowed Goods 24 

Yokes, Lace 61 



NEW RECIPES, CLIPPINGS, ETC. 



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NEW RECIPES, CLIPPINGS, ETC. 



NEW RECIPES, CLIPPINGS, ETC. 



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NEW RECIPES, CLIPPINGS, ETC. 



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NEW RECIPES, CLIPPINGS, ETC. 



NEW RECIPES, CLIPPINGS, ETC. 



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OCT 26 1911 

NEW RECIPES, CLIPPINGS, ETC. 



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A Thought of Washing Day 

By Julia Ward Howe 

The clothes Hne is a Rosary 

Of household help and care; 

Each little saint the Mother loves 
Is represented there. 

And when across her garden plot 

She walks, with thoughtful heed, 

I should not wonder if she told 
Each garment for a bead. 

For Celia's scarlet stockings hang 

Beside Amelia's skirt. 
And Bilbo's breeches, which of late 

Were sadly smeared with dirt. 

Yon kerchief small wiped bitter tears 
For ill-success at school; 

This pinsifore was torn in strife 

Twixt Fred and little Jule. 

And that device of finer web, 

And over-costly lace. 
Adorned our eldest when she danced 

At some gay fashion place. 

A stranger passing, I salute 

The Household in its wear, 

And smile to think how near of kin 
Are love and toil and prayer. 



■ — s^E3 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



014 149 834 4 










